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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-09-10||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: I climbed Wilson Peak today in beautiful weather. There was a lot of rain over the past 72 hours and it has washed away the Rock of Ages trail in three places along the final section. You can cross them, just be careful. There was a little snow beginning about 12,500‘ and it was melting by the time I was descending. Further up the peak the snow ranged from 1 to 6 inches deep depending on how it had drifted. It only became an issue from the false summit to the true summit. I had microspikes but would have preferred crampons. I went very slowly, testing every step and handhold before relying on them.
|2014-08-27||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: From RoA trailhead... Snow line was about 12,500‘. 3rd class pitch after saddle with Gladstone was dicey so I took the 2nd class option. Made it to 13,900‘ false summit - see photo below. The 3rd class last pitch was covered with 2-3" of fresh snow. With deadly exposure I decided to bail and save it for another trip.
|2014-08-08||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: No snow on the route anywhere above Rock of Ages saddle. A bit of inconsequential snow to cross on the Silver Pick approach near the rock house. No gear needed.
|2014-07-05||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Climbed Wilson Peak on 07/05. Several snow fields to cross below ROA saddle. One or two snow fields on the way from ROA saddle to Wilson summit. In early morning, snow was relatively hard, so traction device might be helpful. Later around noon, snow was soft enough for easy kick steps. Some one made to summit with no gear other than a pair of sneakers.
|2014-06-30||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Two snow crossings necessary around 13,800 or so. The first one can be done on the safe flat ridge. The second requires a traverse on a moderate slope.
|2014-06-27||Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Info: Nobody had recently done a report, there is still a lot of snow in ROA above treeline. It was definitely find your own way to the saddle, and on the way down you can still glissade from about 20‘ below the saddle down into the basin. Definitely made a mistake trying to summit at night, didn‘t make it before the sun set so turned around before the false summit at ~13,600‘ where you cross another long, steep snow crossing. There were several crossings after the saddle, not avoidable due to it running from ridge to basin or because the ridge is full of cornices. Wouldn‘t consider doing this route without traction and an axe right now.
|2014-05-27||Route: NW face
Info: I was up in Silver Pick on Monday and Tuesday (5/26-27). The road is snowed in and blocked by downed trees 2.2 miles from the trailhead. There great snow coverage in the upper basin, skins went on 1/4 mile from the trailhead (after hiking the 2.2 miles on the road) and stayed on for most of the ascent, but it was getting thin in spots and melting fast, so by now you will probably need to hike the first 1/2 mile. We had to bail 100‘ from the summit because of a single move we weren‘t comfortable with making (3rd class covered with 6" of loose, unconsolidated snow and ice-covered handholds in a no-fall area), but someone had made the move and made the summit prior to us that same day, so it‘s just a matter of your skill and risk acceptance. It seemed like this upper crux pitch was only covered with new snow, so it will probably melt out quickly. It was a pretty good ski down, although there were several wet slide debris fields to navigate around. The north faces of mt wilson and el diente looked like they were almost exclusively slide debris fields, so not great skiing over there. I‘ll add pics once I get them uploaded...
Info: patches of rocks. can climb N. facing couloir and slopes to summer route on W. ridge rock to the top but snow options to the west with minimal rock traversing
|2013-09-29||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: From ROA TH snow has accumulated (dusting to 6") over much of the trail from ~11K up. There was a lot of melting down low on my descent. The downclimb off the false summit and ascent back to the summit ridge was pretty sporty. I used microspikes and spent considerable time feeling for footholds through areas of soft drift snow up to 18". Melting and refreezing could create additional challenges but this section gets very little direct sun. Downclimbing the class 3 ledges around 13.2K was sketchy due to slushy conditions but if the forecast holds the ledges will likely be dry soon. It was a beautiful snow climb.
|2013-09-20||Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Info: Dry up to the false summit. There crossing over the North side there is snow on the Class 3 sections. Light traction like microspikes may be helpful.
|2013-08-27||Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Info: There is no snow to be found, however there are some washouts from recent rains. Take care crossing talus as approaching saddle. Also (my opinion) This hike is more like a 3+ than a 3, due to sheer drop offs in some exposed areas. We quit w/ .3miles to go, as we felt risk was too high. Did Sneffels SW Ridge, also rated a 3 with complete ease and didn‘t feel as if that was a risk for my skill level. Additionally, this is a no dog trail & the sheriff was out patrolling the area by vehicle. Just some thoughts....
|2013-08-11||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: We drove in on 8/10 and noticed a decent snow accumulation on the San Juans when we got to Montrose. We attempted the route anyway. Got to 13,500‘ and decided to try and wait for the snow to melt a little before moving higher. However, the summer monsoon moved in before the snow melted enough for our comfort level so we headed down. The trip was still worth it!
|2013-06-22||Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Info: Climbed on 6/22 and the trail was almost entirely clear. There were a few steep snow crossing on the trail in the basin which may warrant an axe early in the morning but those are melting fast and will be gone soon. Other than that there is no snow higher on the mountain. The trail is fairly well defined on the upper mountain and relatively easy to navigate as well.
|2013-06-09||Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Info: Climbed Wilson today. I lost track of how many times I transitioned to crampons and back. This was my slowest ascent of Wilson ever but it was fun and the weather was blue bird. The upper mountain was definitely a "mixed" climb. The good news is that it was really warm and melting fast. Also, from Rock of Ages back I didn‘t post hole once in spite of a lot of snow. Stay on the "dirty" snow.
|2012-11-03||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: We climbed via Silver Pick Basin and the Rock of Ages Trailhead. The road is totally dry and very passable all the way to trailhead. The creek crossing is very low and was no issue. Of course, Silver Pick heads in via north aspects. We were dry until about 11,500‘ where there was a dusting of snow. At 12,000‘ snow was ankle deep. At 12,500 and above, you would find spots where snow could be up to your knees. The final traverse out of the basin and to the Rock of Ages Saddle was mostly loose snow but with three short spots (20 feet in length) of bullet hard snow (photo 1). Ax and crampons are a good idea. Once making the Rock of Ages Saddle, the two south aspect traverses were bone dry (photo 2). From the false summit, you down climb in shadow, so the snow cover on the down climb from the false summit was a bit more pronounced. We ran into a group that didn‘t have crampons (just micro spikes) who didn‘t feel comfortable, so we rigged a rappel (photo 3). The summit pyramid, itself, has a bit of loose snow at its base, but is clean and dry from 1/3 of the way up all the way to the top (photo 4).
|2012-09-16||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Dry the entire way. No snow anywhere.
|2012-07-06||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: There is snow on this route in a couple of places still. Only one snow field is crossed after the Gladstone Peak - Wilson Peak Ridge, if you end up descending the 100ft to skip class 3 climbing there.
|2012-06-21||Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Info: Wilson Peak ridge was dry...fun scramble. The Rock Of Ages trail had about 5 decent sized snow fields covering the trail...nice bucket steps in them al though. Descent into Navajo Basin was dry.
|2012-06-11||Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Info: Road up to TH in great shape. Stream crossing is low. Still numerous snowfields to cross coming up the ROA trail, once you cross over into Silver Pick Basin. Crampons not required. Ice ax would be helpful but also not required. TH dry from ROA saddle all the way to the summit. Some very minor snow in the crux of route from false summit to real summit but avoidable. First pic is entire Wilson Peak route from Navajo Basin.. Second pic is looking at Silver Pick Basin from near ROA saddle
|2011-10-03||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Snow in Silver Pick Basin from just above stone ruins (12,200‘) to Rock of Ages saddle. Remainder of route is dry except for exposed gully between false summit and peak. Recommend crampons or microspikes and ice axe. Navajo Basin is dry. Note this info is perishable; snow is forecast for 10/4/11.