Click to Expand
|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-05-28||Route: Snoopy's Backside Chute
Info: Bring snowshoes for the hike in and out. There was evidence of some wet slides and point releases but nothing that ran particularly big or particularly deep. The deepest deposition was about 2 feet. There was no evidence of wet slabs the whole way in. The red dust layer is exposed on a lot of the approach and to a lesser degree on the faces of the peaks. What additional cover there is above the dust layer is pretty minimal. We started climbing at 6:45 and topped out around 8:30. We found everything from calf deep slogs to stuff I could only front point, and my axe nearly bounced off of. We began descending at 9:30, facing in and kicking steps. The top half of the couloir was in good to ok shape. The bottom half was a total slog. Steps collapsed 12 inches or more, and the snow felt quite mushy and wet. Once off the peak in the flat valley about 30 minutes away whumping became frequent. I triggered about 10 - 15 whumps in just a 10 minute period snow shoeing out. With how warm it is getting each day, you want to be up and off this thing by about 9 at the latest. The sun hits it around 5:40ish.
|2014-05-02||Route: North Couloir via Herman Gulch
Info: Toured up Herman Gulch to the base of the Citadel. Climbed up the north couloir, scrambled the ridge to the summit, and rode down the north couloir. Skinnable from the parking lot with a couple ground patches. There was approximately a 12" deep, 4 finger dense slab, on much of the couloir. Shovel shear, sheared hard, Q2 Shear (planer no energy X2). New snow slab seemed pretty well bonded for the moment but with a little water percolation from warming temps I could definitely see the possibility of a slide up here in the next couple days. Some good powder in the couloir. Corned up a bit in the valley. Lots of new snow sluffing off cliffs on the north face with sun hit.
|2013-06-28||Route: Northeast Couloir
Info: Wanted to do a quick solo snow climb without a long drive... The Citadel‘s Northeast Couloir is perfect right now. I left Hermans Gulch TH a little before 7am and slowly meandered up the dry trail to Hermans Lake. From the Lake I made my way over to the base of the Citadel. It‘s a short trip across the stream and through some Willows and Boulders. The NE Couloir starts at the bottom of the small basin and runs all the way to the saddle. Its very solid and deep. I started up around 9am. The snow was perfect. I used my BD Axes and Crampons. I did have to kick steps the entire way up. Stay to the center and left as you climb. The right side is melting a bit as the sun hit it. Also, wear your helmet. There was some pretty good rock fall activity. I did take a softball size rock to my thigh. It did not feel good.... Once I topped out on the saddle I had some fun scrambling up "Both" summits. I wouldn‘t start up the NE Couloir much later than 9am though. That sun was pretty intense. Both summits were completely dry. After lounging on the summit I headed back down to the saddle. I had a short scramble around the back. It was mixed with snow and talus. I walked the ridge and descended the main South Couloir. Its much larger and not very steep. I was able to get some great glissading in. I returned to the lake and headed down as the clouds rolled in. Such a great snow climb right in the Front Range. Highly recommended. Red up. Green down.