Click to Expand
|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2012-06-24||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: There‘s a short section near the top of the couloir holding snow, some icy. It‘s probably mostly melted by now, but be careful because it‘s easy to slip. Otherwise, good and dry.
|2012-06-17||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Road - dry; hike to Blue Lakes Pass - dry; climb to substantive couloir - dry; couloir - avoidable snow; climb up onto ridge proper - dry; ridge- dry; Lavender Col- snow in upper portion; climb to upper col - dry; approach trail (std. route) - dry
|2012-06-11||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Only one patch of snow left on the road to the 4WD trailhead. It‘s only about 30 feet long but it is DEEP. There was a guy up there from Ouray Bridge and Roads(?) that said he was going to bring a dozer up and clear out so I would imagine you‘d be good by the weekend. Route up to Lavendar Col is completely dry. You can make it about 200 feet up the couloir until you reach snow. We didn‘t try to go any further as we did not have spikes or axes and it would have been a little too sketchy for my comfort level.
|2012-06-03||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Mt. Sneffels standard route from Yankee Boy Basin. Starting from the 11,200‘ TH, the 4x4 road has a few small water crossings that can be easily navigated. There are a couple small snowfields to walk over, or you can go around them. The beginning of the actual trail is all clear and easily navigated with only one small snow area at not much of an angle - super easy! The big gully (first picture) is completely melted out except for the very top, but getting over the snow at the top of the gully is not difficult at all. Just walk up and over. Lavender Couloir (second and third pictures) is partially dry - between 1/3 and 1/2 the way up, the snow starts and the angle is roughly 45 degrees. However, there are good steps everywhere, and the snow is very suncupped. It is doable without an axe and microspikes, but would be a little sketchy. If you have them, take them for sure. The sides of the gully should be melted out within the next several days. The V-notch (fourth picture) is a little wet from melting snow but the holds are very solid and trustworthy. Past the V-notch up to the summit is dry.
|2012-05-28||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: The gully from the col is still full of snow. Traction is recommended. V Notch has some snow in it but easily passable. Here is a youtube video taken from the Notch up to the summit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gErsFjwpn0
|2012-05-19||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Snow is melting fast on the road. As of today you can currently drive about 1/2 mile past the lower TH, about 11,600ft or so. Then there are some big drifts over the road. Great climb, as the previous report said the exit notch "V" is blocked by ice/snow, but you have two choices do a little rock climbing or go back down and follow another snow filled chute up.
|2012-05-17||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Climbed Sneffels via Lavender route this morning. Car camped at 2 wheel drive TH, you could probably punch it for another mile or so, but then the snowdrifts start. The slope to Lavender col is a giant scree and talus fest, with intermittent snow. The couloir itself is in great shape, perfect pons and axe climbing. One caveat; the exit notch (V) will not go, it‘s blocked with this funky sno, ice, verglass thing. I went about 15 feet higher, needed solid 4th and at least one low 5th move to pull out of the couloir. Better to exit earlier to the S face chutes, which I did on the descent. Absolutely BOMBER weather, 6 hours RT. Pics and full TR to follow. Peace!
|2011-11-01||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Climbed Sneffels on Nov 17th. Camp bird road is "driveable" with chains, 4wd etc.. up to the Revenue mine. My vehicle wasn‘t up to it so I walked from below the switchbacks, adding an extra 5k or so to the approach. Deep snow and post-holing form 10,000-12,000‘. Snowshoes are highly recommend. The standard route above the summer upper trailhead is wind blown and relativity easy, however the upper summit couloir has deep snow and poorly bonded windslab in places. The "V-notch" was full of snow and a bit tricky.
|2011-10-02||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Hiked into Sneffels during the evening on the 2nd. The route is 99% snow free except for a small 99.5% avoidable patch on the saddle. Did you know 78% of all statistics are made up on the spot? Peak conditions around the San Juans given my view from the summit: the Lake City group is mostly snow free especially on standard routes. The San Miguel mountains are packing a lot of snow on the north faces. See other condition reports. But, all south slope routes on sneffels are snow free but not very dry. West slope high country has been getting some precip. Engineer and Cinnamon are still dry.
|2011-09-25||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Conditions on the ridge were great. It was t-shirt weather on the summit yesterday and the whole route is almost snow free. There were only two or three little small sections of snow on the ridge in the areas that don‘t receive much sunlight and only one section of about 10 feet where you had to be careful on the snow in an steep section. We brought our microspikes with us just in case but never used them. P.S. This route was an awesome class 3 climb but descending the standard route sucks reminds me of a mix of Columbia and Bross.
|2011-09-24||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Sneffels - Ascended the ridge and descended standard route. No continuous snow, very few snow fields, no impact on your climbing. If I were to climb it tomorrow, I‘d wear trail runners and not think twice.
|2011-09-09||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: I was rather taken back by descriptions of the approach to the upper trailhead. The hardest part of the road is indeed the "keep right after the restroom pullout." This short section requires short wheelbase with 4wd low. However, if you go left here then stay to the right you will shortly rejoin the same road with very little difficulty. As you do pass through the creek 2x this may be difficult or impassible other times of the year. My real beef comes at the "Recommended Only Short-Wheelbase 4wd Vehicles Beyond This Point" sign. I parked my stock AWD Ford Escape at this point and hiked the beautiful roadway for a mile to the Upper Trailhead. This roadway was far nicer than most of what I had driven up the previous few miles. My take on it is if the water is low...don‘t stop at the restroom parking area, keep driving all the way up to the upper trailhead. And would somebody please make the description more accurate.
|2011-08-22||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: Yankee Doodle basin to base of SW ridge was dry, clear and obvious trail, no dark approach route finding issues, no snow on ridge, technical section prior to top ridge proper was muddy, route well marked as to cairns, no route finding issues to the top, route sees traffic . . . Link to link Trip Narrative with photos.
|2011-08-14||Route: Standard Route
Info: Standard Route from Yankee Boy Basin is free of snow. Whether that makes this route better I‘ll leave up to you.
|2011-08-06||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Summited Sneffels via the southwest ridge. The route is completely clear of snow save one section where you drop down to the climber‘s right into a gully. The gully still has snow in it, but you can scramble up the rock to either the left or the right of it (I went up to the left). I found this route to be much more enjoyable than the standard route!
|2011-07-28||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Taken from Unamed point directly east of Sneffels from this AM. Could not see into the Lavendar Col from my angle. Attached photo shows east and north face. This morning was the first morning in the last few days where there was no rain or clouds at sunrise.
|2011-07-20||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Snow is still present in the upper half of the upper gulley. Steps are well cut-in. Seemed to be moderately soft by 10 am. Regarding snow climbs I‘m guess I‘m a novice, but I‘d recommend an ice axe, cramp-ons wouldn‘t hurt either. One person had an uncontrolled slide in the gulley while there (he is OK). Lower lavender gulley and approach all snow free. Snow free at the top above the upper gulley, including the crux notch move. Will try to post pics or a TR later in the week.
|Wish I lived in CO||2011-07-21||0||1|
|2011-07-12||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: The 4wd trailhead cannot yet be reached by vehicle. The road is open to the Wright‘s Lake trail. Lots of snow on the road above that and not likely to be open all the way for some time, a couple weeks at least. SW ridge generally snow free except for crux half way up the ridge. I went up and over and didn‘t need an axe, but if traversing under and around one would be useful. Photo of the crux move and summit attached. Descent on standard route. Snow in the couloir above Lavender Col soft and easy to plunge step even at 9:00 p.m. Recent rain really softened up the long descent off Lavender Col making it actually very enjoyable.
|2011-07-03||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Road above Lower TH has 3 small stream crossings and passable snow drifts on the way to the Upper TH. From Upper TH, some minor snow crossings - no snowshoes required at all. Some snow in the gully going to up towards the col - snow was hard in the early AM but a slush pile late AM. The col is full of snow (some rock outcropping now) - crampons/axe were helpful for ascent/descent. The exposed crux move is muddy with some snow at the top of it. Minor snow crossing on the way to the summit but again manageable.
|2011-07-02||Route: Blaine Basin Snake Coulior
Info: Trail up to the basin generally clear of snow. Couloir in great shape for climbing, looks like ski season is over. Crampons were useful, its getting hard, but not icy yet. Still enough snow for an easy exit at the top that avoids rock climbing of any sort, but that will melt out soon. Descent on SW ridge very nice. Enough snow to glissade past many of the switchbacks from Blue Lakes Pass down to the lakes.