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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2015-02-15||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Climbed Sneffels Saturday and Sunday. Current snow conditions are the best you can ask for in February. If you have the chance get out there! Road closure is at senator falls roughly 5 miles(?) To revenue mine. It‘s a long way but the road is snow free after you‘re off the road and heading to the basin snow shoes are necessary. Snow in the lav col/couloir was crampon hard. A bit too hard for a nice glissade but definitely nothing to worry too much about. Any questions feel free to pm me
|2014-12-07||Route: Visual from afar
Info: Views of Yankee Boy peaks from the S. I don‘t have info on conditions in the basin, or about how far on the road one can drive. Snow conditions in the Red Mtn Pass area on S/SE/E aspects at and above treeline were supportable/firm with a few inches of slough on top. Didn‘t feel instabilities on slopes up to ~30ish*. Pix: #1 -- Gilpin & Sneffels (l. to r.) #2 -- Cirque, Teakettle, Potosi (highpoints l. to r.) #3 -- T0 (far left) & Dallas (center)
|2014-10-04||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: I was really looking forward to a snow climb, but as we made our way up the basin it became pretty apparent that it was unlikely. The SW facing slopes only have patchy snow, while the northern facing slopes still have a thick blanket. The difference in snow coverage on the varying slope aspects was really pretty astonishing. Lavender Col is still a miserable scree slog with ribbons of breakable crust snow. The gully heading toward the V notch was knee to thigh deep slush. The notch itself was choked with snow. We had a motivational crisis at that juncture and bailed. We parked at the lower TH where the toilet is, and hiked the road up which was snow free for the first half. Then it is mostly snow covered (it looked like a few jeeps had attempted to get up but obviously failed). The trail from the upper TH is patchy snow. Snow shoes/skis would be useless since you‘d have to take them off frequently.
|2014-09-30||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Made an attempt on Sneffels today despite the heavy snowfall on Monday. No trouble getting to the lower TH but definitely used the 4WD feature on my truck to get up there. The mountains are pure white and you would think its the middle of January not the end of September. Deep drifts and post holing up the couloirs. The ‘V‘ notch (pictures 26/27 in the route description) was the crux of the route and we had to turn back at that point. The rock was covered in rime and snow and there is serious exposure below the notch. Without a rope to protect the move we decided it was just too dicey and not worth it to continue. Met a couple all-mountain badasses at the TH and we ended up being the only ones brave enough to attempt the mountain. All previous groups either wandered around off trail aimlessly or turned back at the apron of the ascent gulley. Fun day, but be prepared for full on winter conditions up there!
|2014-08-10||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: The route is completely dry and clear except for a stretch of about twenty yards in the col below the V-notch, which remains covered with snow/slush/ice. I didn‘t see many people with shoe spikes, but I had mine and was glad I did, made things much easier. Couldn‘t believe how many people didn‘t have helmets, though, particularly given that I heard at least three "rock!" calls. Wear a helment on Sneffels, people. ‘nuff said! --BF
|2014-08-06||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Still a bit of snow for a short portion in the couloir. Maybe about 50 feet at a relatively mild angle. The rest of the route is completely dry aside from a few stray patches of ice. I would recommend an ice axe, but most people on the mountain were using a sharp rock as a substitute. This should be gone within the next couple of weeks. No gear needed really.
|2014-08-03||Route: Southwest Ridge
Info: A small patch of snow exists at the notch (pic 21 of the route description). It should be gone within a week or so. Wet rocks on the next steep pitch made it the crux. As the last report noted - The Lavender Couloir is still holding snow in its upper portion. Having my ice axe made the descent 5 fold safer. Took the descenders right variation out of the LC (class 3 downclimb). pic1 - steep wet crux pic2 - Lavender Couloir pic3 - LC variation
|2014-07-30||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: The Lavender Couloir still has snow in the upper third. It requires climbing about 100 yards of snow to reach the notch. Not recommended without ice axes or hiking poles to stabilize in the snow. I witnessed two people struggling to control their descent without ice axes, poles or crampons.
|2014-07-12||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Prior report by Ldub 7/3/14 remains good information. Ascended the SW ridge - there‘s a gully with soft snow and ice underneath after you drop down to bypass a gendarme, reascending the gully. Traction and an axe are ideal for this spot. We ended up ascending the gendarme on rock, C4 -low 5 climbing, then cutting across the snow higher. On the standard route, after the notch on the descent, the gully remains full of soft snow/ice. People are bypassing it on the rock rib to the right (climber‘s right on descent), staying out of the gully. Agree it‘s C2+ - C3 on this bypass. The scree descent from the saddle is muddy/wet up high, but dry lower.
|2014-07-11||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Some snowfields to cross in the basin. Easily done without any gear. On the class 3 SW Ridge route, there are some snowfields to carefully walk around. On the standard route, you have to cross the snow at the very top of a couloir near the summit which must be done carefully. There are other minor snowfields that are easily crossed/avoided above 13k.
|2014-07-03||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: mostly snow free except for the gullies. We had to make around 5 short snow crossings, most of which were not too bad. The exception to this was by the "small notch" on the ridge. You have to drop about 50‘ and the gully is filled with softer snow. We cross it by hanging on to the rock and taking as few steps in the snow as possible. Felt more like class 4 than class 3 due to trying to avoid the snow. We had to head down fast due to a storm at the summit. The standard route still has a lot of snow in the gullies until the saddle, most of which gets pretty soft. Made for some tricky down climbing. Standard route below the saddle is mostly snow free, but is a loose dirty mess. Not a fun decent. Overall either route is doable, but neither is "easy". know what you‘re doing and watch the weather, the ridge is not a good place to be if it gets bad.
|2014-07-01||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Hiked up from lower TH, some snow to cross in the basin, the first gully has some snow, easily avoidable. There is plenty of snow in the 2nd gully, snow was very firm and icy in the early morning, we used micros and axes for ascent and descent. Some snow after the notch as well but clear near the summit. Snow is melting fast.
|2014-06-23||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Peak had plenty of snow still but it made for epic glissading. The couloir is pretty boot packed and it was a blast with micro spikes. Upper trailhead is not accessible but the hike up from the lower TH wasn‘t bad. Each week that passes should make it even better. Just be safe on the snow. There is the potential for things to go wrong if you slip.
|2014-06-15||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: We did the Lavender Col from Yankee Boy Basin and found excellent snow conditions both ways. We started at 5:00 am and the snow was firm (like styrofoam!) both on the approach to the Lavender Col and the "scree slope" that leads to the summit. There‘s a cornice on the V notch which is easily avoided by scrambling on the rocks to the right. Just a couple of easy moves. No postholing at all on the way down, and a fun glissade. Attached is a pic of the slope leading to the lavender Col.
|2014-06-14||Route: NE Couloir from Blaine Basin
Info: I did a solo climb of the NE Couloir of Mt Sneffels as described in the Roach guidebook. I wanted to do the Snake, but was concerned about the Class 4 scrambling to reach the summit, and also about having difficulty finding my way back to Blaine Basin via the East Slopes route as I haven‘t been on the mountain before. That said, the lower Snake looks to be in good condition. Anyway, like a lot of other couloir reports right now, this couloir is fat, I‘d say the upper portion is around 40 degrees. A minor bit of scrambling west at the col at the top of NE Couloir puts you in a broader snow slope from which Lavender Col / Scree Col is visible. Moderate snow slope traversing can bring you to this col where you can take the standard route up. The NE Couloir is shaded from the east and the snow was extremely firm quite late into the morning compared with Blaine Basin. In the afternoon I was able to glissade from 13,400 to almost 12,000 continuously, stopping only to redirect to avoid a few rocks and to give my butt a break.
|2014-06-08||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Climbed Sneffels via the standard route today. Significant snow melt since the last conditions report. Patchy snow from the 2WD TH to the 4WD TH with lots of water flowing over the road. I found trekking poles helpful in keeping my feet dry during these crossings. Still significant amount of snow from the 4WD TH to the summit. Made the summit at 7:15 and used crampons from the 4WD TH to the summit. Snow was consolidated and frozen, so crampons and ice ax were a necessity. No troubles climbing the rock on the right side of the V notch to make the last pitch to the summit. Things softened up considerably once the sun hit the snow, but unless you are descending much after 9, I wouldn‘t bother with snowshoes.
|2014-05-31||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Made it to the lower parking lot in the CRV by 3:30 AM. A few bare spots but pretty much continuous snow from lower trail head to summit. Snow was fairly consolidated and frozen that early in the morning and I made it back to the car before 9 AM so post-holing not a huge issue. Saw some recent slide activity on both sides of the basin. The lower couloir had a couple of recent slides but these were actually better to climb up since the snow was more consolidated. Upper couloir had similar conditions. The "V-Notch" at the top of the upper couloir was completely filled in with snow. I bypassed the V-Notch by going to the right and was easily able to climb over the small ridge with crampons. Notch to summit was a breeze, still plenty of snow on the summit. Coming down I was able to glissade most of the lower gully! Pics: 1. Upper Parking lot 2. Looking down lower gully 3. Looking down upper couloir 4. The V-Notch
|2014-05-17||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Snow conditions are spring-like below 12,500-ft on sun exposed slopes. Above 12,500 there was a 1-in thick sun crust with unconsolidated powder below on top of the firm layer prior to the storm early this week. Collapsing was noticed in the flats, but no instability was noted ascending the Lavender Col. The Lavender Couloir (SE Aspect) was creamy powder with a slight sun crust near the top of the couloir. The crux exit onto the south face consisted of snow climbing through a chopped out window in the cornice. The exit was much easier than anticipated on mostly ~65 degree snow for a short distance followed by a brief steeper section where I shimmed myself up and over. I was able to ski direct off the summit and into the Lavender Couloir through the same window climbed through. Note in the photo of the face from the summit (#3) a team building an anchor to drop into the Snake Couloir. Just below the team is the window through the cornice to exit/enter the Lavender Couloir. The Birthday Chutes were filled with wet slide debris from prior days. A wet slide was noted from a prior day in the Lavender Col that released midway up and ran to near the base. Road is in good condition and was able to make it to the restroom parking area in a Subaru Outback (8.7-in clearance).
|2013-09-23||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: The snow has melted from much below the gulley, but the gully itself and Lavendar Col were full of deep (8-12") snow. Will probably melt quickly in coming days. The snow compacted very easily, I don‘t think you could have slid if you tried. We summitted with poles, gaiters, and microspikes. The V-notch was full of snow and slick, - we took 10 minutes to clear snow/ice from holds before attempting a hairy climb.
|2013-07-20||Route: From Yankee Boy Basin
Info: Col snow free.