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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2014-10-25||Route: Crystal/Pacific saddle
Info: Did Roach‘s "West Winds Classic" starting from the Mayflower Gulch upper TH. Gained Pacific via Crystal/Pacific saddle. The traverse to get to the saddle under Pacific‘s northwest face was a pain as snow was hiding good foot placement in the boulders (see pic #1). From saddle to Pacific summit was much better. Snow patches easier to avoid with better foot placement. Dropping into and out of notch near summit was no problem in terms of snow. While on the summit a couple just came up from Pacific‘s West Ridge route. They made it safely, but said there was some snow/ice higher up. Keep in mind today‘s weather moving in could change all this quite a bit.
|2014-09-07||Route: East Ridge
Info: As of Sunday morning, Sept. 7, the ridge was still dry and snow and ice-free, despite snow showers on and off throughout the day. If continuing along the ridge toward Pacific Peak around the left side of the small lake at 13,400‘, there is still a very short snowdrift remaining along a portion of the ridge above the lake, but it‘s not especially exposed, and it‘s easy to get back onto rock after just a few steps on snow. Rest of the route is dry. Looks like snowfall in the region has been highly localized: the higher Mosquito Range summits (including the DeCaLiBron peaks) were looking quite snowy, while the Tenmile Range was mostly dry, other than just a dusting high in the shaded north-facing gullies of Quandary. All in all, beautiful early fall conditions, with some magnificent tundra colors, and the trees starting to turn as well.
|2014-07-21||Route: Southeast Slopes
Info: The headwall is still filled in with snow and traction was marginal with microspikes + poles. We took a path to the right (NE) at the interface between the rocks and the snow. Otherwise the route is summer conditions.
|2013-06-28||Route: Hawaii Couloirs
Info: Pacific Peak‘s Hawaii Couloirs, accessible from Mohawk Lakes, are still in, and the skiing was fantastic on Friday 6/28. I would imagine they won‘t be in for too much longer, though, so if you‘re still looking to get a ski descent or snow climb in, get it soon... probably still good through next weekend, but wouldn‘t wait any longer than that. Also, got a view of Drift Peak, and it is still in for a ski descent, although I didn‘t get a view of the bottom part of the line. Above the couloirs, the ridge hike to the summit was dry, and the route was in good condition. There is still skiable snow above Pacific Tarn as well, although it was pretty sun-cupped so the turns here weren‘t all that great. Will post a full trip report soon. Until then feel free to PM me for pics.
|2012-06-09||Route: East Slopes
Info: Climbed the East Ridge of Pacific Peak on Saturday. The entire route is snow free, zero need for axe or crampons. The descent was a talus hell though as we came down the saddle between Atlantic and Pacific. Fun class three ridge.
|2012-06-01||Route: southeast slopes
Info: Went up the north facing snowfield just east of the peak. Good snow from the base near the lake. Went down the east ridge and took the northeast snow slopes down back to the car. North couloir looks like it was in good shape and didn‘t see much ice at the top. Let me know if anyone needs some pictures of the area.
|2012-04-08||Route: West Ridge
Info: The West Ridge is almost completely dry, pic taken from near Atlantic Peak. The road up Mayflower Gulch is packed solid. Crossing the gulch through the willows was on very supportive snow but that was likely due to last night‘s low temp of 16F at the TH. There was abundant evidence of a recent sufferfest getting through there over towards the base of Atlantic. We stayed on or near the ridge most of the way, scrambling over the dry towers along the ridge and only put on microspikes for getting up and over Atlantic. Descending Atlantic‘s West Ridge was on solid snow and then talus until reentering the trees. Recrossing through the willows in the gulch back to the road will likely not be as easy as it was today if the warming trend continues.
|2011-07-10||Route: North Couloir
Info: Climbed the North Couloir on Pacific Sunday. We left at 430 from the 4X4 trial head. Reached the base of the Couloir around 630 on excellent trail. Some rock hopping over small streams was needed. The route was in excellent shape. We were able to kick good steps most of the route. Above the dog leg, the route narrowed and became more icy. However, the ice could mostly be avoided. There were two short steps that required a basic mixed move, otherwise excellent snow conditions. We carried a rope and extra tool but was not needed. Currently the camera is MIA but check back later this week and I will post some pics.
|2011-06-05||Route: via Atlantic
Info: Route: Mayflower Gulch -> Atlantic via West Ridge (see mrickers‘ conditions report) -> Pacific -> Descent from Atlantic/Pacific saddle. RT ~ 7 mi. About 7 hrs at a comfortable pace. Ridge from Atlantic generally has talus (2+) on climber‘s left and wind-hardened, varying-angle, stable snowpack on right. Snowshoes were not used on the ridge, but they were definitely needed in the Pacific Creek drainage. Ice axes and trekking poles were used. Crampons are unnecessary, but may aid an early, fast ascent from Atlantic. We climbed the notch to the NW for fun - snow is avoidable, but plenty of loose rock. Good cornices forming on the N. Ridge. Stuck to talus and margins of 40 deg snow gullies while descending west off the saddle - no instability noted at the margins. Major posthole in the drainage. Obvious avy signs present beneath ridges. Stable in the morning; avoidable later. More pics here: https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/PacificAtlantic652011#
|2011-03-06||Route: West Ridge, Atlantic West Ridge descent
Info: Pacific Peak‘s West Ridge is in great shape for a winter ascent; varying degrees of snow and minimal ice. We generally stayed on the south side of the ridge proper and encountered very little deep snow or large snowy areas. The saddles between Pacific and Atlantic, and Atlantic and Fletcher Peak are both relatively clear of snow. The descent via Atlantic‘s West Ridge was much less appealing. Approximately 1/3-1/2 of the way down we were stopped by 6-10ft thick, visibly layered, wind-loaded slabs on the ridge (sorry no pictures, my camera‘s battery had succumbed to the cold). This ridge is just waiting to slide, I strongly advise against travelling Atlantic‘s West Ridge until conditions improve. Because of dangerous conditions on the ridge, we descended into the Atlantic/Fletcher cirque via the (relatively) safest path we could find and met up with our approach path down Mayflower Gulch. Due to this changed descent we were unable to return to the shoulder at the base of Atlantic where we stashed our hiking poles on the approach, if anyone is planning on going that way I posted in the lost and found section here: http://www.14ers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=28998 Pacific is in really good shape for a winter climb but just plan for a safe descent accordingly.
|2011-01-30||Route: West Ridge
Info: Climbed Pacific Peak on 30 January via West Ridge. Excellent snowshoe track in place from trailhead to basin below flank of Pacific, snowshoe trail cuts off to vicinity of Crystal. We left a three person track in and out to base of West Ridge also. No avi issues on our climb. Ridge was rock and snow, no ice, melting or verglas issues. Opportunity for steep snow pitch near top. Descended North Ridge, loose and rocky, no joy. link Trip Report if interested