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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2016-06-16||Route: Kilpacker Approach
Info: Snow on 06/14/16 was in perfect condition for the south east approach. Snow almost all the way to the top minus the last 100 feet or so. Will expect warmer temps and full sun to continue to loosen snow pack. could be some post hole potential later in the day on the retreat. This route if taken early enough is shaded so will be more solid. Steps kicked on upper portions.
|2016-05-28||Route: East Face
Info: Approached from Cross Mountain TH. I chose to climb Cross mountain trail to 10.8 or 11K then contour. This was an excellent choice. Skins went on at 10.3 (just after slate creek deviation) and there were two skiable dirt patches. I started to descend Slate creek, and quickly decided to regain to !!K. and traverse out back the way I came. This is a much better option as the creek is in pretty bad shape and requires contrived effort to exit. riding out to 10.3 the other way is pretty easy. Anyways - skinned up to 13.K on the east face. there was 20 cm of storm snow on MF crust with the top 10 sitting on grapple in its range. roller balls by 8:30 on the grauple layer. I avoided the standard route and booted up to the N. ridge and climbed this to the summit. Summit descent is IN right now and clean. From the Summit block S. to the E>W Col then East out to Box Car. I cut the 20 cm slab out of the S. Slope. Although S. at 9:15 it was protected from sun. These protected slopes S. N. W. whatever harbored wintery snow. (the specified 20 cm) by the time I got to box car it was wet, but cuts wouldn't produce loose wet avalanches. I wanted to ride gladstone also but I felt it was too warm to gamble on cloud cover. I know Kadrowsky was successful on the 3 peak link up that day. Not sure how he played his aspect card, but would seem like luck with cloud cover was on his side. Everything in the Wilsons is stacked right now. Great time to go ride in that zone. W. couloir on Gladstone is fat!!! great linkup options!
|2016-04-23||Route: East Face
Info: Terrible, terrible skiing. But fast climbing on hard snow and continuous turns from the summit to the trailhead.
|2016-03-20||Route: Boxcar Couloir
Info: Ascended Boxcar Couloir via Cross Mountain TH, descended east slopes. Snow consolidated in Couloir more since last CR, found good spring snow conditions in the Couloir, but we had exit by 11am. Snow stable up to summit. Many skin tracks in the Slate Creek drainage, but partner and I put in a solid trench. Thank you SnowAlien for the intel.
|2016-03-13||Route: Boxcar couloir
Info: Approached from Cross TH. Greg and I ascended Boxcar couloir as conditions looked favorable so I later skied it. Calf to knee deep consolidated powder in the couloir with one windloaded spot early on which we avoided on climbers left. Traversed the bowl and went to the summit. The summit gully was a lot of snow, slowly turning to corn on the edge of rocks, and later provided the best turns of the day. Scrambled last 40 feet, which are mostly dry. Skies Dawson line. Greg descended broad gully towards Gladstone saddle and we regrouped under Boxcar apron. RT under 11 hours. TR will be forthcoming once I get photos from Greg ;) We followed some faint skin tracks in the trees and made our own. Trailbreaking wasn't too tedious. CAIC rating was technically yellow that day bc of wet slides, but went Green on next day.
|2015-10-10||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: Snow from 12,500 ft to the summit. I used microspikes un the last 200 ft.
|2015-09-29||Route: North Slopes
Info: I came down this route from the El Diente traverse. It was free of snow. Much easier to descend than the Diente slopes.
|2015-09-29||Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Info: A tough traverse. Unlike other reports, I didn‘t find any troublesome snow areas. Only on the Diente ascent did I use my axe a few times. Really, after having done Capitol recently, I would say that the Diente/Wilson traverse plus its ascents and descents was harder than Capitol by itself. Here‘s a link to some footage of the narrows from my Go Pro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUxIXLNzIt4
|2015-09-28||Route: Navajo Lake Approach
Info: Great trail. No snow. Excellent camping near Navajo Lake. Aspens are off the hook right now!
|2015-09-24||Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Info: Climbed El Diente > Mt Wilson from Kilpacker. We stayed on the ridge for 90% of the traverse peak to peak. Snow/hardpack on the north side standard route for El Diente. Snow later in the traverse descending in front of Mt. Wilson, near the north slope trail. Snow sections are 2 to 3 inches deep with hardpack surface, ice bottom layer. You really need spikes. These areas are exposed. We did the standard route climbing El Diente descending a class 4 ridge to connect our traverse. Stay on the ridge as much possible in the traverse! Loaded shelves with loose rock if you contour below.
|2015-09-17||Route: Kilpacker Approach
Info: Snow melted out considerably where exposed to sun. Traction would have been appreciated on this day, climber who summited on 9/18 indicated snow avoidable.
|2015-09-06||Route: Kilpacker Approach
Info: Snow last night and the night before. Some ice. The snow is enough to bind the loose rocks and doesn‘t make anything slippery. We summited at 8:45a. Later, when the sun came out it started melting. There are 3 large snowfields from last season. They are perfect for avoiding the loose rock. They‘re easy to walk on on the way up and fast and fun on the way down. Aim for the the snow.
|2015-09-06||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: The route is in prime condition. Muddy from all the rain below treeline, but it was drying fast. A little snow stuck the night before. Go get it!
|2015-08-31||Route: From Wilson Peak
Info: Didn‘t climb Mt Wilson. From Wilson Peak the area looks mostly snow free.
|2015-08-28||Route: North Slopes
Info: Hi my name is Kristina! This is my 33rd fourteener and Wilson Peak is #34 this summer. My goal is to climb all of them this summer. You can read more about this hike and others by visiting sunshineof1985.com! Have fun! Be safe! Mount Wilson Route: North Slopes Wilson Peak Route: Southwest Ridge Distance: 19.62 mi. Elevation Gain: 6,770 ft. Time started: 5:45 am End time: 8:05 pm Time to Summit Mt. Wilson from Navajo Trailhead: 5 hours and 35 min. Time to Descend Mt. Wilson to 12,300 ft. in Basin: 1 hour and 20 min. Time to Summit Wilson Peak: 2 hours and 10 minutes Time to Descend Wilson Peak: 1 hour and 30 minutes or less Overall Pace: 1.4 mph *GEAR (to bring): Bear spray, GPS, extra socks, phone, SPOT Satellite Tracker, Map, Topo Map from 14ers.com, hiking boots with 2 pairs of socks on, long-sleeve, wind-guard/raincoat, light weight puffy coat, lightweight gloves, day pack with water sack and extra water (130oz), snacks (Bag of combos, 3 serving beef jerky, 2 Zone Perfect Bars, 1/2 sandwich bag of trails-mix, granola bar). *Road Condition: The road is a very nice dirt road. Typical pot holes and small rocks, but my sedan was able to make it all the way to the trailhead with ease. *Trail Condition: Navajo Trailhead: Muddy throughout, but because of the rain mostly. It should dry up within the next couple days. Easy to follow. Wilson:98% snow free, but avoidable. Dry. The worst loose rock I have experienced (worse than Maroon). The cairns past 13,300 are invisible, so print off pictures from 14ers.com. They were very helpful and helped me stay right on track. Wilson Peak: Nice and easy from 12,300 in Navajo Basin to 13,000 saddle. From here, the 14ers.com directions are vague at best. Read below for more direction. The rocks were loose, but not as bad as Mt. Wilson.
|2015-08-19||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: Climbed Mt. Wilson‘s SW Slopes route from Kilpacker and the snow just before the Class 3 terrain is down to just a few small snow fields between 13,100‘ and 13,700‘. I brought microspikes but didn‘t use them although some people might prefer to have them to feel more comfortable on the remaining snow. Another week and you‘ll probably be able to walk around all of the snow. Over the past 2 years, CFI has been working on major trail rerouting and reconstruction below tree line in Kilpacker. They recently opened the new trail and it looks great. Thank you CFI!
|2015-08-16||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: This route is pretty well cairned now, I had no trouble finding and staying on route. I thought the climbing was as easy or easier than ED‘s south slope, definitely Class 3 max. I would strongly suggest using crampons/ice axe as the snow fields still fill most of the upper basin and avoiding the snow would make for a tedious climb.
|2015-08-08||Route: Southwest Slopes
Info: CFI has completed most/all of their work up high on the Kilpacker approach. The trail is well cairned beyond the El Diente turn off all the way to the rock rib crossover in the Y gullies, the route is straightforward. Still several large snowfields about 13K that I found microspikes to be very helpful on. After a lot of rain recently the gullies are loose but manageable.
|2015-08-06||Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Info: From Kilpacker Basin there is some snow on the way up to El Diente, but it‘s pretty much all avoidable. The traverse is dry, except for a few steps across an icy gully at one point. The ice has a nice snow curb on the low edge so it wasn‘t sketchy enough for me to pull out gear. I followed Roach‘s Southwest slopes route to get back into Kilpacker, which is sort of miserable. There is a nasty, steep snow field high up in the gully that I worked my way around. A little lower down the snow is continuous (and thankfully much less steep) and I boot skied or glissaded quite a bit of the descent back to where the El Diente trail splits off.
|2015-07-25||Route: North Slopes
Info: Summer conditions. Trail crosses two small snow fields. Snow was bulletproof in the morning. Because I didn‘t have traction, I opted to go below the first patch and then stay on left side of gully just to the left of the snow until my elevation was about 50 feet shy of ridge (went as high as the snow gully went). There is a nice trail at that elevation that I traversed on until I met the true trail. Perfect day.