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Longs Peak  
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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2012-09-22  Keyhole Route  Summer conditions along Keyhole route to Trough, where some snow/ice is present on climbers right of ascending side, easily avoidable. No snow to speak of on Narrows or Homestretch. LetsGoMets   2012-09-23  0     Edit Delete 
2012-09-21  Keyhole Route  Occasional snow in Trough is easily avoidable. Most conspicuous at very top of Trough but again, can be avoided. Think I saw one rivulet of ice in the Narrows. No snow in Homestretch. Note Narrows and Homestretch face east so melt first if morning is sunny. Breezy in AM but died down around 11am. Visibility is lousy due to smoke from Wyoming/Pacific NW. TravelingMatt   2012-09-21  0     Edit Delete 
2012-09-19  Keyhole Route  Very windy today all the way to keyhole. Once past the keyhole, wind died down. Very little snow/ice in trough - completely avoidable. Large patches of ice in narrows, but below the route if you follow the bullseyes. No ice, snow, or water in homestretch. Overall, very good conditions for September. Just a few patches of snow and/or ice to try to avoid, which is easily doable. In addition, we only saw two people heading down back to the TH from the time we started at 2am until the beginning of our descent at 9:45am. We were alone on the summit, which seems to be unsual for this peak from what I‘ve read. aliciaf   2012-09-19  0     Edit Delete 
2012-09-18  Keyhole Route  Some snow in the Trough. Didn‘t feel like it made conditions much harder, though this was my first time on the route. The exit slab at that top was unclimbable, so we did a class 4 move around it. Everything else was dry. jomagam   2012-09-19  0     Edit Delete 
2012-09-15    Went up today with Keyhole ridge as primary, north face as secondary. Ended up doing the standard keyhole route. Through the binocs it looked like the first and crux pitch of Keyhole Ridge have snow as well as a patch of snow at the base of the crux pitch that might have produced some ice on the slabs. The north face literally glistened in the morning sun as it was almost completely iced over. The slabs to the right of the dihedral looked dry but there was a large patch above the pitch that would be difficult to get around. As we headed up the standard route it looked like there was a team at the base of the dihedral, but they seemed to be there for a while, so not sure if they headed up or not. Standard keyhole was clear of ice and snow for the most part. A little in the trough but completely avoidable. Dave B   2012-09-15  0  1    Edit Delete 
2012-09-09  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Most beautiful weather we‘ve ever had on a 14er, sunny and blue skies all day. Went up the Loft to Longs Pk, then descended same way and summited Meeker. Not many people on the route, even thought it was a Sunday. All dry and clear. That will change in the next few days. Kitten   2012-09-11  0     Edit Delete 
2012-09-09  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  In spite of recent precipitation and cold temps, the Loft and Keyhole routes, as well as the routes up "SE Longs" and Meeker, are in generally summer conditions and don‘t require special gear. Several tiny patches of snow above 13k, especially on N-facing aspects, but nothing that can‘t be easily navigated around. The only areas of complication were ascending to the Loft on the 10‘ wide ledge, which had ice flows crossing it in large, but still avoidable patches. Descending the Keyhole midday found parts of the "Ledges" section a bit muddy/wet, but they didn‘t seem to stop people from summitting Longs well before we did, so I imagine any ice there is minimal as well. Absolutely fantastic day--get your climbs in here in the short time you still can! ChrisinAZ   2012-09-09  0     Edit Delete 
2012-09-08    Went up the Cables Route today. Most beautiful weather I have ever experienced on a 14er. Blue skies without a single cloud all day. However, the Cables Route was littered with patches of ice. We all brought our rock shoes, and should have had boots and/or spikes or crampons. it was doable. But definitely added to the difficulty. We could see the ice from the boulderfield. so you should be able to make a smart game-time decision from there. We were hoping the ice had melted by the time we rapped down. But it was still there and going strong. forbins_mtn   2012-09-08  0  2    Edit Delete 
2012-08-31  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Hiked up the Loft route, down the gully past Clark‘s Arrow, up the couloir to the Homestretch, then down the standard keyhole route. Started seeing a little snow on the route up to the Loft, but didn‘t have an issue until ascending back up past Clark‘s Arrow. Later in the day, I was told there was a hailstorm the day before, which explained all the icy snow on the couloir and Homestretch. The Homestretch wasn‘t completely snow covered but wet enough that the majority of folks turned around without summitting despite the nice weather. I had my microspikes with me so I summitted without an issue and slid back down on my butt. Once past the Homestretch, the Trough had even more snow, but I was okay with my spikes. Definitely a wet ascend. snr25   2012-09-01  0     Edit Delete 
2012-08-26    There is some ice on the 5.4 pitch(s) on the cables route. Makes the climb just a little more challenging since you‘re limited on holds that aren‘t iced over. Placed a few cams when I otherwise wouldn‘t have. Certainly not a deal breaker, but just a heads up. Also heard there is a little ice on the northwest couloir. Looked down the homestretch and it appeared dry. Didn‘t hear any mention of ice/snow on Keyhole route. Carl   2012-08-28  0     Edit Delete 
2012-07-28  Keyhole Route  Arrive early if you want to park in the lot at the Trailhead...we arrived at 1:30am and there were only 5 spots available. Perfect conditions...no ice or snow anywhere along the route. Due to showers the previous day, the Trough & Homestretch had some flowing water and wet areas. This was my first time to summit Longs so these wet areas I described are probably always present. seaplus   2012-07-30  0     Edit Delete 
2012-06-23  Keyhole Route  Perfect conditions. Snow patch on the right side of the Trough is completely avoidable. Spots of ice (and melting ice) throughout are completely avoidable as well and should not pose a challenge. Get to trailhead early if you want to have a chance to park in the lot, saw lots of cars parked down the road on my way out and lot was probably 60%-75% full at 3 am when I arrived. Some photos attached (Homestretch and Narrows) show you how dry it is now. And a fun one to show how windy it was  MissH   2012-06-26 3  5    Edit Delete 
2012-06-22    Route is in and awesome. Lambs slide was easy moving and was the only snow on the route (which could be avoided if you wanted to) Very little snow on broadway - easily avoidable. I wore 5.10 approach shoes and was very glad with that decision. I will post some photos of the rack that we carried. I found it to be MORE than enough gear for the rock sections. We also carried one single 60m 8mm line and just doubled it over on itself. I climbed with both ends tied into my harness and my partner put a double figure eight on a bite at the middle of the rope. Very lightweight, and provided plenty of line to rap the cable route. klimbien   2012-07-02 3     Edit Delete 
2012-06-22  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Longs via Loft Route with Mt Meeker thrown in for good measure. No microspikes or anything needed. One "spot" of ice on the loft couloir - but unlike the misleading posts usually typed up here - the ramps are not icy. There is ice in 1 spot, but there are lots of spots to go around it. Loft to Keplinger‘s to summit of Longs was 99.99% dry - with some occasional snow melt running - but totally avoidable. flintster   2012-06-23 4  1    Edit Delete 
2012-06-09  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Dry until ramp off Loft Couloir then patchy snow fields. Down climb to Clarks Arrow and to just below Homestretch dry with few areas of avoidable snow. Tough is rotten snow on south side of gully but can be down climbed on right avoiding snow. Dry on Ledges and below. Alan Arnette   2012-06-10 4     Edit Delete 
2012-06-09  Flying Dutchman Couloir  Crux is pretty much out but can be climbed at ~M2+. Started up the couloir around 9 am in perfect crampon conditions that quickly deteriorated. The coming cooler weather might help. Snow is pretty much continuous for the rest of the route. Descended the loft, good and climbable. davey_rocket   2012-06-09 2       
2012-06-07  Keyhole Route  Conditions seem to be changing rapidly but on June 7 the crux of the route was the trough, where there is a mix of hard frozen snow, softer (kickable) snow, frozen plunge steps, ice, loose rock, etc. I was uncomfortable in there, going back and forth from rock to snow, sometimes using an ax, sometimes wanting both hands. I had crampons but did not use them. There are places they would be helpful, places they won‘t. It‘s a personal thing though, of course. I know that others went through with nothing, wearing trail shoes and shorts. Other than the trough, there are no problems whatsoever. There was some verglass on the homestretch at 9 a.m. and likely will be early in the day for days/weeks to come. It got my attention, but is avoidable. Any snow/ice on the various ledges is easily avoidable. The approach trail up to the Boulderfield CG is in great shape (tiny bits of snow in a few shady spots). There is no snow from the CG to the keyhole. scrambling   2012-06-08  0     Edit Delete 
2012-05-15  Keyhole Route  A few snow piles below treeline then clears up - no spikes needed. Snow avoidable in Boulderfield. Ledges extremely icy in many spots- care advised. Trough snow packed with boot path. Narrows had large area coved by recent slide, icy in many spots. Homestretch had many sections covered in veriglasss with snow near top. Used microspikes down and none up, no ice axe. Alan Arnette   2012-05-15  0  1    Edit Delete 
2012-05-02  Keyhole Route  I hiked the keyhole route today. Left the TH at 315am. It took me 5hrs to the summit including a 30min break at the keyhole. Then only took me 3.5 hrs down for a round trip of 8.5hrs. Clear night with many stars turned into a cloudy sunrise. snow in the trees was packed down from others so no issue crossing it. windy once above treeline. mix of snow on the trail after the keyhole. ice axe was totally needed. spikes or crampons depending on your comfort level. pete26   2012-05-02 4     Edit Delete 
2012-04-29  Keyhole Route  Hiked up to the Boulderfield today and encountered some large snow fields on the trail, Mt. Lady Washington, and it looked like there was quite a bit of snow up by the keyhole. Most of the snow below treeline is hard ice and easy to get over with microspikes. The snow above treeline is much softer, but too shallow to cause much difficulty. Mt. Lady Washington is very clear of snow and easy to go up. jsdratm   2012-04-29 2     Edit Delete 

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