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Route  Conditions Information  Posted By   Posted On    Photos  Comments Likes Dislikes    
2014-07-27  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Made a journey up the Loft route and descended the Keyhole on Sunday (7/27). Of course, all the campgrounds nearby were full when I arrived Saturday afternoon, so I drove a few miles south of the TH and turned left on CO-82 (Cabin Creek Rd.) and drove a few miles out and found some dispersed camping. Guns and hooligans on four-wheelers -- not a peaceful night. Getting to the base of the Loft ramp and climbing the initial ramp is easy.. Towards the top where it cliffs out is where the fun begins. According to the description on this site there is a class 3 set of ledges that will take you to the top. Well I found many ledges, but ended up free soloing some 5th class rock with about 50 feet of air below my feet and it got a little intense. Snow at the top of the ramp is not an issue. Once on the loft the difficulties are not over. I did not see Clark‘s Arrow when making my down climb/traverse but then I did not look hard for it. The route finding is fairly easy to get over to Keplinger‘s couloir and eventually to the base of the homestretch. Tons of amazing scrambling is to be had in that area and it can be as difficult as you make it. I chose to climb some 4th class rock leading up to the homestretch and bypassed most of the herds of people on the homestretch by climbing some exhillerating 4th class lines up to the right side of the homestretch. The only issues on the route are some areas where water is seeping out making the rock slippery. mostly can be avoided. I chose to descend the Keyhole route for two reasons, one that I had never been on that route, and two because I definitely did not want to down climb those cliffs at the top of the Loft couloir. Maybe it was a mistake because as I learned the trail from the Keyhole to the TH is much much longer and more tiresome than the trail from the base of the Loft couloir to the TH. Oh well, the Narrows section of the route was pretty epic and it was worth it. I got a full tour of the mountain! BagginPeaks   2014-07-28 8     Edit Delete 
2014-07-23  Keyhole Route  Keyhole Route is completely free of snow. Biggest weather challenge was layering correctly. Ultimately ending up in t-shirt and shorts. Only (standard summer) suggestion is START EARLY. We summited at 8:15am in absolute blue and by the trailhead at 2:00pm the peak was enshrouded in dark gray and the rain started. Have fun! PC12Pilot   2014-07-25  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-19  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Loft route is free of snow other than the short snow field approaching Chasm Lake. No special equipment required. The reports re damage to the area around Clark‘s Arrow ( seemed to me to be somewhat exaggerated. I found the major landmarks to be intact, and most of the info in prior trip reports regarding this part of the route should still be applicable. In any case, it‘s still a relatively straightforward class 3 down climb. NateD   2014-07-20  0  1 1  Edit Delete 
2014-07-19  Lamb's Slide to Loft/upper Keplinger  1) Approach: The NPS-described "treacherous snowfield" on the Chasm Lake trail is indeed there, and not an exaggeration. While very short (less than 100 feet), the snow crossing is a tiny (6 inches or so) foot ledge, frozen solid in the predawn hours, on a steep slope with a nasty runout, and a slip would make for a really unfortunate start to your day. Don‘t be lazy, and get out your axe and traction! Microspikes are a good way to make this crossing both safe and fast. If this is your first time, going around the right side of Chasm Lake will almost certainly take longer than you expect, especially in the dark. If you look carefully, you‘ll find something of a use trail to help you find the easiest way. 2) Lamb‘s Slide: We started climbing around 5:45 AM. Conditions varied from step kickable-snow to very firm, thick, icy crust. The icier sections required some care, but it never really gets very steep, and we didn‘t feel the need for a belay. Confident snow/ice climbers should be OK with an alpine axe and crampons; some may want a second tool. I‘d estimate the average angle at around 35 degrees, with the steeper parts around 40. The continuous snow ends where Lamb‘s Slide meets the Flying Dutchman. From there you have a choice of either crossing another snowfield above the Dutchman, or going around and below it on loose, but easy talus, to the final 100 or so feet of 2nd/easy 3rd class to the Loft. 3) The Loft to Keplinger‘s: Part of the slope leading to the location of the former Clark‘s Arrow has seen recent rockfall activity (likely the same that caused the Arrow‘s demise). Accidentally entering one of the recently-created rockfall chutes, I dislodged a microwave-sized boulder that came within an inch of crushing my foot. If you stay to descender‘s right (as my wife did, wisely) you avoid the need to go into the chutes, and thus avoid the worst of the choss. The Clark‘s Arrow traverse is still reasonably well-cairned. If you don‘t see the cairns, just head towards the base of the prominent buttress on descender‘s right: the route skirts just under the buttress. Take care to keep following the cairns across the boulder-strewn slope, and don‘t be tempted to ascend too soon: we made this mistake and ended up several hundred feet above the actual route. The "chimney downclimb" didn‘t feel too difficult (just a couple of third-class moves). The Keplinger Couloir is straightforward and mostly pretty solid if you stay on the big blocks. There are some wet sections, and also a bit of ice just below the junction with the Homestretch on the Keyhole; this ice can easily be avoided if care is taken. 4) Descent: We descended the Keyhole. As expected, there were 100s of people on it, so I‘ll leave it to someone else to describe the conditions there. In summary, this is a great option for a big mountaineering adventure on Longs, taking you on a full circumnavigation of the mountain, with great variety of terrain, views, and difficulty. No technical gear except for snow climbing equipment, and a helmet, should be necessary. Enjoy! AlexeyD   2014-07-20  0  1    
2014-07-13  Keyhole Route  To bring a helmet or not to bring a helmet... that is the question. Bring a helmet! I didn‘t walk on snow. Crampons and axe would have been extra weight. Didn‘t have a drop on water in the pack until treeline - good water sources are available up to there to filter. Above treeline you‘ll see a few little streams. Overall good hike. If you see the weather move in come back another day! Descending from the summit would be pretty crappy if it‘s raining! At 9am yesterday some water was on the homestretch. (Last part before the summit) I was fine to down climb as a rock climber, but most people were on their first 14er and have never rock climbed. Stay out of the water on angled rock!!!! Can‘t stress that enough!! Have fun climbing!! Also, I‘ve attached the lower topo from and put red dots where solid water sources would be found. At 10,600 feet there‘s a stream crossing and just below 11,000 feet you‘ll see a stream coming down from Jim‘s Grove 30 feet to your right. Jim‘s grove has tons of standing water and tons of bushes if bushwhacking is your thing... The boulder field has another stream crossing as the second map shows, but it‘s very little water and by 11,000 feet I needed a drink of water anyway. Hope this helps! mtn_climber214   2014-07-14 1  5    Edit Delete 
2014-07-12  Keyhole Route  Summer conditions on keyhole Nate_Williams   2014-07-14  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-09  Keyhole Route  No gear needed for full ascent/descent on Keyhole route. Snow/ice melted in trough enough to avoid without going off-route. marcstrawser   2014-07-09  0  1    Edit Delete 
2014-07-07  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Apparently Clark‘s Arrow was swept away in the floods last September. More info here: martinleroux   2014-07-08  0     Edit Delete 
2014-07-05  Keyhole Route  Solo trip to longs started at 12:45, back at 9:00 went through the keyhole lots of black ice due to my 5:30 summit time. The route can almost be done without winter gear, just more scrambling on the left side.i used my crampons anyway only for the top section of the trough. Not to mention the ever so slightest snow dusting on the summit Stevo68   2014-07-05  0  2    Edit Delete 
2014-07-02  Lamb\'s Slide  We started at the base of Lamb‘s Slide around 7:45 AM. The snow was not soft at all. We had good cramponing all the way up. We were climbing along the climber‘s left in the couloir. There were some sections of hard snow/ice, but overall awesome couloir climbing conditions. The couloir was in shade for the most part. We topped out at 10:00 AM. The snow slope from the top of Lamb‘s to the loft was not too soft. We descended down the ramp and loft couloir. Finding the ramp wasn‘t too difficult. There are three snow patches at the top of loft forming a triangle - from there you can follow the cairns to the ramp. The ramp begins at the lowest of the three grassy ledges. Crossing the big boulder on the ramp was tricky - some snow/ice around and below it. I crossed fromm the front and jumped on the snow. My partner crossed from behind icy section. From there we had to do some exposed class 3/class 4 down climbing to avoid snow in the couloir. overall a great day. Contrary to what people are saying we found the snow to be not too soft in couloirs till about 10:00 AM. I had to down climb a small section of the snow in loft couloir to avoid exposed class 4 in my mountaineering boots, and the snow was not too soft. Overall a great day. The Dutchman may not be in shape. ash-ish   2014-07-03 2       
2014-06-30  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  I climbed Longs and Meeker using the Loft route for the ascent and the Keyhole route for the descent. While I had crampons and an ax, I used neither for the ascent. You still have to cross a couple of sketchy snow gullies near Chasm Lake, but most people are just using trekking poles. The rest of the snow you have to cross is very low angle and just short patches between rocks. I was able to climb on dry rocks left of the Loft couloir all the way up to the exit ramp. When you link up with the Homestretch section, just stay to climbers right of the snow/ice and you can climb all the way to the summit on dry rock. I decided to descend via the Keyhole route and regretted it - more for its tediousness, than the conditions (the Loft is a lot more fun). While there are still many sections of snow and ice, you can avoid most of it by careful scrambling. I wore my crampons for only a 20 foot section of the Trough. It‘s probably still a good idea to bring an ax and crampons for the near future. KTC88   2014-07-01  0     Edit Delete 
2014-06-27  Kieners  Trail is completely dry with two very small snow patches near treeline. We did the entire approach to lambslide and the descent from below the N. Face in trail runners. Lambslide was a little soft at 6am given no recent freezes. We did not use crampons on broadway as the snow is almost entirely avoidable (excepting the short down climb). The step around is dry. Snow at the base of the notch was very soft at 8:00 and Kieners chimneys were wet and muddy - a snorkle would be useful. Snow on upper Kieners was too soft to travel on by 10:00 but easy enough to avoid with rock scrambling to climbers right. Snow was very soft on the descent of the north face and the cables route is a river. Dave B   2014-06-28  0       
2014-06-26  Kiener's  THIS REPORT IS NOT FOR THE STANDARD ROUTE! Trail is completely clear (minus a couple drifts near treeline) up until after Chasm junction, then there were a couple snowfields to cross before Chasm lake. Snow was firm in the morning and slick. You may still find some solid snow/ice around the north side of Chasm lake, but we did some boulder hopping part of the way around. Lamb‘s Slide was in great shape. Broadway had a couple sections of snow which we protected, though if you are very comfortable with snow there are good steps. You can walk right across the bottom of the Notch couloir, completely dry within 10/20 feet of the cliff edge. The crux chimneys were mostly dry with one very wet section to get out onto the upper slopes. Upper slopes do have snow, but we skirted around the left side on mostly class 3, some class 4 rock. Diamond step completely dry. For descent, North Face has a large snowfield to cross before the slabs. We used axes/crampons. There were a couple icy sections and an uncontroled slide would send you over the Diamond or the slabs. The rappels were very wet. Hike out sucks, as always. stevevets689   2014-06-27  0       
2014-06-21  Keyhole Route  Went up the Keyhole Route on Saturday 6/21. Snow is a non-factor up to the Keyhole, then you can easily scramble to the False Keyhole without gear. After the False Keyhole there is some steep and icy snow with major consequence if one falls, I used crampons/ice axe through this section, though good steps do exist and two others made it through without gear. The Trough is mostly snow with quite a bit of ice forming on the slabs to the climbers left. Crampons and ice axe required for the snow in the AM as it stayed hard until at least 9:30am. The step at the top of the Trough is melting out and is mostly a rock scramble unfortunately, snow doesn‘t help much anymore. The Narrows are 80% snow free and most of it could be avoided EXCEPT for one 5ft patch of ice and another 30ft of hard snow/ice, I wore crampons all the way across the traverse. The Homestretch is mostly covered in snow/ice and again used crampons/ice axe all the way. Narrows might be clear in the next few weeks, but the Trough and Homestretch will probably be technical at least into July from my experience. See photos for exact conditions. thebeave7   2014-06-23 6  3    Edit Delete 
2014-06-20  Loft - via East Longs Trailhead  Went up via the Loft route and back down the Keyhole. The snow on the Couloirs is still pretty great and held firm throughout a sunny morning. On the ledges, its a bit dicer, but good boot pack to follow. Crampons, ice ax, and helmet a must! This is a steep route, so be safe. Not a climb for beginners (considering all the issues people have had on Longs already this year). Coming around the beaver (SE Longs) really keep an eye out for the cairns. The class 3-4 scrambling is virtually free of ice and snow, but has some loose rock, so take precaution. Connecting back up with Keplingers Couloir, the snow was still pretty good. On the homestretch, really try to get a good firm hold with the ice ax, especially coming down when the snow gets soft. Its a bit lighter up there. markanolan   2014-06-22 7     Edit Delete 
2014-06-19  Keyhole Route  Summer conditions up until the Keyhole. Lots of snow on all aspects of the route after that. The snow had a strong overnight freeze and was very firm. I had a hard time getting good plunges with the ice axe. As per usual the narrows were the least sketchy part and the homestretch was the most sketchy. Also the north face and loft are both holding a decent amount of snow. akoller   2014-06-20 8     Edit Delete 
2014-06-17  Notch Couloir and Cables  Conditions are changing quickly. With that in mind: Due to some good, recent freezes the Notch is in Prime condition. Broadway has some snow but not at any of the tricky spots. Hard styrofoam snow the entire way; even surprisingly firm near the top. The 5.5 chimney is completely smegged in ice making for a more award and tricky climb. Due to the freezing and north aspect of the Cables route our descent had hard snow as well. Lower cables was covered in ice. The snow never softened up and we had to front point for the entire descent. The keyhole may be a better descent option at the moment. Pic 1: Lower Notch Pic 2: Upper Notch Pic 3: Icy Chimney out of Notch Pic 4: Hard snow on North Face. Pic 5: Still lots of snow on the North Face. Furthermore   2014-06-17 5  1    
2014-06-16  Notch Couloir and North Face  The Notch couloir on the east face is still in great condition. The snow was great for kicking steps and held firm since the most of the couloir doesn‘t receive sunhit until late. The top was a bit soft. We thought the crux chimney was harder than 5.0, especially with ice. We descended the north face and the snow was still quite firm in the afternoon. We had to face in from about 200 feet below the summit to the highest rap station, an exhausting ordeal. The snow didn‘t soften much due to the wind. Kevin Baker   2014-06-17  0  1      
2014-06-14  North Face & Keyhole  For some reason I went up the North Face (Cables) and down the Keyhole both yesterday and today. Conditions are changing rapidly. The North Face was probably an ideal snow climb 5 days ago. Yesterday it was pretty good with a couple of careful steps on the cables section, and otherwise good snow right to the summit. Today the crux moves at the top of the cables section were quite icy & we had to hack some steps to be secure with running shoes and light crampons. It will probably get harder with time (mix of wet rock & ice) until it finally dries out later in the summer. But anyway the top bolt is easily visible so it‘s a fine rap route as is. The Keyhole Route is in great shape for crampons/ax. The first 200 yards from the Keyhole are rock, then it‘s almost completely good, cramponable snow to the top of the Trough, then some rocky and some snowy sections through and past the Narrows, then the Homestretch is all good firm snow. It‘s a great route in these conditions, if you bring the right tools. All this is of course changing very fast. pbakwin   2014-06-14 2  2      
2014-06-04  Notch Coulior; Keyhole  Climbed Longs via the Notch on 6/5 and descended the Keyhole. Here is some beta from all the different sections which we encountered. Excellent snow conditions for anyone with a mind, but the keyhole is still very, very much in snow and ice conditions. Chasm Lake: Frozen in the middle, melting out fast. We were able to traverse around the south side of the lake on snow. This may be in for a while longer. Lamb‘s Slide: Excellent booting snow. Almost no signs of rock fall or wet slide activity. Terrific purchase the length of the coulior. Broadway: Still substantial snow across the route. Multiple 45-60 degree fields to cross. Some areas had melted out, but it was almost always easier to stick to the snow. First crux move consists of a nearly vertical 10-15 foot down climb at the start of the traverse. Move around the boulder was melted well with some good pro opportunities nearby. Climbing above the boulder seemed possible, although much more involved and not worth it. Notch: Excellent snow conditions with a solid boot track in place due to several parties going up. Snow conditions varied considerably based on sun exposure, which was different due to the shaded portions of the route. By noon, the top was getting quite wet - start early. Homestretch: Terrific snow down climb the whole way on 35ish slope. Moving on the rocks is possible, but a good boot track is in place. Keplinger‘s looks in for a ways down the coulior. Skiers take note. Narrows: More snow to cross. Several spicy section for anyone without an axe or crampons. Loft: More good snow on gentler angle. Fast and easy snow down climb. Feel free to post of PM for more beta or pics. I plan on doing a TR in the coming days. Zambo   2014-06-05  0  1      

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