Peak:  Sunlight Peak (14er)
 Route:  South Face
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  dmccool
 Date of Information:  07/16/2011
 Date Posted:  07/18/2011

Chicago Basin is completely dry - as is the approach up to Twin Lakes. Once above Twin Lakes, there are some snow fields heading toward Sunlight and Windom, but they are all pretty low-angle and can be traversed w/o crampons. An ice ax might be useful for stability. The standard route on Sunlight is dry except for a small snow patch at the crux below the chimney. It does not pose any danger though.

To gain Windom's saddle, you can ascend a snowfield or you can stay off to the left on the rocks. The ridge to Widom's summit is dry.

The approach from Twin Lakes toward the Eolus group is dry, but to access the "ramp" that heads toward the Eouls/N. Eolus saddle you will encounter a significant snowfield that requires an ice ax at least and possibly crampons or microspikes. My advice would be to have the ax/spikes/crampons handy for most of the time up to the saddle as the snow will be there for awhile.

  • Comments or Questions

Re: Pics     07/18/2011 23:31
Yes, I have some. However I'm still in the San Juans and won't be able to upload them for about a week. Sorry


Thanks!     07/19/2011 19:50
Great beta! Did you summit all three? Sorry for begging the question: was the snow headed toward sunlight and windom deep enough for postholing? Does the snow on Eolus headed up to the saddle pose any danger of a fall? I read about the hiker who slipped on snow and broke his leg, warranting an air rescue.

Thanks for the info!

Wish I lived in CO

Sunlight     07/21/2011 13:02
I ascended Sunlight the day after. You're right, the standard route has a little bit of snow below the chimney, but it is easy to go below it and avoid the snow all together on Sunlight.

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