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 Peak:  Mt. Wilson
 Route:  Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  Fishscale
 Date of Info:  8/6/2015
 Date Posted:  8/7/2015
Details

From Kilpacker Basin there is some snow on the way up to El Diente, but it's pretty much all avoidable. The traverse is dry, except for a few steps across an icy gully at one point. The ice has a nice snow curb on the low edge so it wasn't sketchy enough for me to pull out gear. I followed Roach's Southwest slopes route to get back into Kilpacker, which is sort of miserable. There is a nasty, steep snow field high up in the gully that I worked my way around. A little lower down the snow is continuous (and thankfully much less steep) and I boot skied or glissaded quite a bit of the descent back to where the El Diente trail splits off.


Comments or Questions
mspalding
Thanks!
8/7/2015 2:46pm
I’ve been waiting for an update on the Kilpacker route so I can put together a trip to climb Mt. Wilson. It sounds like it is time to go.


zdero1
User
Kilpacker descent
8/8/2015 8:07am
Read Glodder’s recent TR


Fishscale
Yup
8/8/2015 12:01pm
The trip report glodder posted is almost exactly what I found up there on Thursday, with the exception that the snowfields near the top of the descent have receded and iced up somewhat. I was able to bypass them on chossy ribs to descender’s left.



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