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 Peak:  Mt. Eolus
 Route:  Northeast Ridge
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  TheseThousandHills
 Date of Info:  7/9/2015
 Date Posted:  7/10/2015
Details

Still with significant snow above 13,200. Perfect for crampons on 7/9, microspikes not quite enough early in the am - ice axe necessary for safety - our group had to do one self arrest near the top of the ramp. Conditions variable. Someone climbed as a night climb the day before us with no traction. As noted in the last report, once you make the saddle between Eolus and N Eolus no traction or ice axe necessary.


Comments or Questions
lukedog
Thank you!
7/10/2015 9:29am
Our plan is to summit all 4 peaks on Tues–Thurs of this week. Still hoping for more summery conditions to lighten our load but it sounds like we need spikes and ice axe at an absolute minimum, yes? Seems possible we still need snowshoes and crampons too? Regardless – thanks for the great info!


TheseThousandHills
Your Welcome! Snowshoes?
7/12/2015 7:38am
We did not take snowshoes. We saw a group coming out 7/6 who took them in. 2 of their group did not bother to put them on, one did for five minutes. I’m glad we did not take them. But you will probably posthole some. It’s just unpredictable where – so having the extra weight was not worth it to me. I absolutely feel the ice axe is necessary, even if the snow is softening. We had weird and variable conditions – some days the snow was soft in the am – not requiring traction and allowing the couple I mentioned to do a night climb without traction. On 7/9 we started at 400 am on a typical Colorado 14er alpine day – firm snow requiring crampons, softening after 900 requiring an ice axe for safety but no spikes or crampons. The more gear you take the more odds you will make the summits – people without ice axes/crampons/spikes were not making the top. I wish I could tell you for sure about snowshoes – if the conditions are soft they may still help you in the upper basin of Sunlight/Windom and maybe the ramp to Eolus. Start early! Good luck!!!!



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