| Peak: | Mt. Blue Sky |
| Route: | Egis |
| Range: | Front |
| Posted By: | justiner |
| Date of Info: | 6/11/2014 |
| Date Posted: | 6/12/2014 |
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Everything on Evans looks pretty good. Very little snow on the Sawtooth where it's actually an issue - didn't don crampons or use an axe (grumble grumble all those miles, all that weight). One place that it is, is on one the last towers - there's a part where you scamper up a bit, before sneaking to the east. I never liked the scamper up on snow, as I usually hit it pretty late in the day, and it's just a mess to try. Rather, I climbed the rocks to the right. If you're not comfortable with that, don't do the route. There was minimal snow on that horrid gravel incline that seems to me at least the crux of the climb, given the exposure - I opted for the higher version of the route: you'll need to scramble up a slight slot before it - there's a dark granite hunk of rock that marks the beginning. The Snave is also still in, be aware that the easiest way is probably to exit to the climber's right, and that a big hunk of cornice on that exact line really really wants to calf off. I'd say the chunk is about 5' square, so be very careful, it is def. detached from the rest of the cornice. Lots of other snow routes on that face look great for climbing. I passed a party of 3 that were hiking up the route to Spalding hoping to hit chutes on Grey Wolf. That would have been unwise, as they don't bottom out - they look real thin. I agree with the advice that one should climb UP what one wants to slide DOWN, but that's just me. I think it's obvious from the top, but that's not always the case. Hoo boy, talking of couloirs, there's a beautiful one on Rosalie Peak of all places, just beautiful, totally in, what an incredible scene. 2nd apron also looks nice and dry! The rock there looks so nice. |
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