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 Peak:  Mt. Democrat (14er)
 Route:  North Ridge
 Range:  Mosquito
 Posted By:  JohnnyDangerous
 Date of Information:  03/09/2014
 Date Posted:  03/11/2014
 Report

My friends and I climbed Democrat's North Ridge on Sunday. It is an absolutely fantastic climb. The snowshoe in is manageable on the approach, and we only sank through the willows a few times. From here our primary concern had been the slope to access the North Ridge. However, it had been fairly cold on Saturday night allowing for a stable snowpack. We did have one crack in the snow by a rock outcropping, but we saw no avalanche activity all day. The ridge itself was awesome. There was waist deep snow in places even on the ridge. This made for a tough but fun day. As far as the climbing we took a half rope, a set of nuts, and a few cams. With all of the snow we had to be careful about our route, and because of this we had 2 roped pitches, and 1 rappel. We summited at 3:30 and then used the couloir off of the Democrat/Cameron saddle to descend. Winds were light most of the day, but picked up on the way out. Also, the rock is very solid for most of the climb and allows for some fun axe work. All in all I give this route an A.


Photos (click for slideshow):
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  • Comments or Questions
jmanner


oooo...     03/11/2014 15:38
...oooooohhhhhhhh Well, done.


climber with a k


Democrat n ridge     03/14/2014 04:14
Nicely done. I'm dying to get on this route. How would you say it would be skiing in and or climbing in tele boots?


JohnnyDangerous



Skiing In     03/14/2014 04:32
You can definitely use ski's to get almost all the way to point 13,460. I would estimate you could use the skis up to 13,200 as its pretty mellow till here. From here the route steepens and the ridge was heavily corniced so we took it slow. You can climb it in tele boots fairly well I would think, especially with all of the snow. This is a sweet route, and looks like it has some nice ski lines. My climbing partner was a big skier in Jackson for many years, and he was eyeballing some lines up there.


climber with a k


Skiing in     03/14/2014 23:32
Thank you! Thats great info.



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