|Peak:||Longs Peak (14er)|
|Route:||Cables / North Face|
|Date of Information:||11/09/2013|
Cables route was a fun climb, with some fun ice as well.
Was concerned about the wind on the technical pitch, with NOAA saying: "Windy, with a west wind 27 to 32 mph decreasing to 20 to 25 mph in the afternoon. Winds could gust as high as 49 mph." It was windy in the boulderfield and during the approach, and we were prepared to turn back -- but the technical pitch had almost zero wind.
We did some class 3/4 scrambling to get to the base of the technical pitch.
Around and above the first eyebolt, the face of the rock was mostly covered in water ice. Ended up climbing it as a WI/mixed. Definitely felt like it was the crux in present conditions. (I would personally recommend bringing a hybrid/tool and ice climbing crampons...but depends on your comfort level I suppose.)
Above that, some snow made the climbing easier until the summertime crux. The summer crux was similar to summer condition, but with some patches of ice/snow. To me, this 5.4 move felt much easier than the ice crux near the start of the climb.
From there, it's a fairly straightforward hike to the summit.