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 Peak:  El Diente Peak (Unranked 14er)
 Route:  South Slopes
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  Nelson
 Date of Information:  06/01/2011
 Date Posted:  06/02/2012
 Report

I went up via Kilpacker yesterday. From the TH to the ridge the route was in great shape. From 12,600 to the organs pipes there is a fair amount of snow. Traction is necessary. There is some snow under the organ pipes which slowed me down but was not really a problem.

Once you swing around to the north face there is a lot of snow. The problem now is that, with the warming, it is very soft. I was trying to stay in old tracks and started postholing immediately. I felt this this snow was a high avalanche risk. A short slide will take you over cliffs. There was also some rockfall with the warming.

These conditions were unacceptable for me and I turned around 150 ft. from the summit.




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