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We had a successful trip up Peak using the Cottonwood Creek approach this past weekend. MitchellS, I can see why you turned around in the dark. I wouldn't want to try this approach in the dark or rain. It took us about 4.5 hours to reach/return from the lake and we had perfect weather both days.

For the waterfall, we never saw a high trail leading around to the left (didn't spend a lot of time searching either though). Amy took a peak from the base of the waterfall, but said she didn't feel comfortable climbing with heavy pack. So, we poked around the slab in Highpilgrim's middle option and found what I think was a pretty easy route even with packs/camping gear. Here's my rough attempt at drawing our route on Highpilgrim's picture, then a few follow-ups showing our path. We don't have packs on in some of the shots because we left them at the base of the slab to get a feel for it before making our way on up. We followed something resembling a trail/willow whacked to the base of the slab and the tree I circled in blue. Pretty sure it's the same tree in Highpilgrim's pic, but it will be obvious once you're there. Started up the slab left of the tree, traversed across a flat spot in the slab, and stepped around the end with a great hand hold for your left hand. A few more steps on solid ground towards the falls and you're about halfway up. From there, it's a simple climb up the left side of the falls. These pictures probably explain a little better than my wordiness ... Continued in following post since I can't have more than three attachments ...

fahixson wrote:We followed something resembling a trail/willow whacked to the base of the slab and the tree I circled in blue. Pretty sure it's the same tree in Highpilgrim's pic, but it will be obvious once you're there. Started up the slab left of the tree, traversed across a flat spot in the slab, and stepped around the end with a great hand hold for your left hand. A few more steps on solid ground towards the falls and you're about halfway up. From there, it's a simple climb up the left side of the falls. These pictures probably explain a little better than my wordiness ...

Continued from previous post ... For the return trip down, Amy and Brett followed the same slab bypass we came up. I decided to take a closer look at climbing directly up/down the falls (following right/left descriptions are from my perspective going down, reverse right/left if you're climbing up). I tried descending the right side, then crossing over to the left on a rock that spans the falls like a little bridge. Once I got to the left side, the easiest way down looked like a 5 foot or so jump down. That didn't seem comfortable with a heavy pack, so I continued down the right side. For the tougher portions of the falls descent, there is a wall on the right side with good holds. I did turn in towards the rock for one step down where the wall on the right created a little overhang. I agree with Highpilgrim that the climb is probably Class 3, but wouldn't necessarily disagree if someone described it as Class 4. The size/width of your pack, variations in the waterflow from the falls, or wet rocks in certain areas might force you to take different lines. Here is a picture looking up from the bottom (falls is out of view to the right) ... Between the two options I tried, the slab bypass was much easier than climbing the falls directly. We ran into Emily, Todd, and her parents as they were packing up camp in the meadow above the falls (they said to tell you hello, MitchellS). They climbed the falls on the way up (in the dark, I think). We described the slab option and showed them some pictures, but I'm not sure how they got down.

In all, we enjoyed the Cottonwood approach for Peak, but again, would think twice about it in the dark or rain. The trail is reasonable to follow and there are cairns in the rocky sections. I'd guess there were about 10 or so trees between knee and head height across the trail that you either had to step across or duck under. Several more have been cut and cleared. So, older trip reports may make a bigger note about downed trees on the trail. We passed by a number of camping spots (including the great meadow above the falls Highpilgrim mentioned, also were Emily, Todd camped), but decided to continue on and camp at the lake. Unless we took a wrong turn, there's still a fair amount of willows/bushwhacking above the meadow on the way to the Red Gully. We thought about camping at the meadow, but thought plowing through that in the dark/early morning would leave us wet and cold. Camping near the lake worked out well.

Herdbull, hope all goes well with GF on Harvard and good luck if you give this approach a try next summer.

fahixson wrote: I agree with Highpilgrim that the climb is probably Class 3, but wouldn't necessarily disagree if someone described it as Class 4.

Hey, glad you had fun up there. I prefer that route to the standard approach. Much more interesting route finding, less peeps, more wilderness feeling.

As you've pointed out, there are a number of ways past the waterfall and anything that gets it done is good. I would add a couple of things to your new commentary.

First, when we climbed the headwall in the way you did, we were higher. I remember specifically because my young son and I argued because he grabbed at an insubstantial branch at the top to pull himself up and I was angry at him doing so. Your route is well below the fringe of pine branches that I remember were in question.

Second, 3 or 4? Well, my version of 4 is more vertical than what I remember being there. In fact, I dug up a pic from when we went through there and both my noobs, still wearing their helmets from the Peak were downclimbing facing out (on their asses though). You can see from the angle of their torsos and from the tree in the background that the slab is well less than vertical. Probably in the 50 degree range and with plenty of handholds, similar to your photos. That smacks of 3rd to me. Might there have been a single 4th class move? Maybe. Funny though: the climb shown in the pic was so long ago, it was on print film. Digital was new at the time. WOW. Time flies when you're having fun. And boy, is digital a better way to go!!!

Third, the high traverse was the easier of the 3 options we explored. Aside from the initial steep upclimb (class 2), it was a breeze. And using it, we stayed dry for the first time, avoiding the willows down lower. I would point out though that the way we took was better suited to the Peak; it dropped us into the shallow basin at the base of the Red Gulley and we would have had to cut over to get to the lake or Needle from there.

One way or the other, I'll go back there again, and soon. It's a great place, worth revisiting again. And again. Pico and Milwaukee beckon and they're kinda in the vicinity. Thanks for posting your pics.

I did the Cottonwood Creek trail this past Thursday as part of a day hike of the Peak, and I just wanted to add my thoughts. I was a little worried about getting around this waterfall based on the info in this thread, but with a daypack, it was actually pretty easy and involved some fun 3rd class scrambling. The trail does lead directly to the base of the falls, where you have two immediate options. There is a slabby rock that you climb up right next to the falls. This is the area mentioned earlier that has a rock bridge and would probably require a jump to get down. It was dry when I was there, but it still wasn't appealing. However, to the left of that option, there is a great crack in the headwall that you can scramble up. The bottom contains the hardest moves, but there are good foot placements the whole way up. I'm sure it would be harder with a large pack, but probably still doable. Downclimbing this crack was also pretty easy. Attached are pics from the bottom and top.

I actually had a lot more trouble in the big meadow section, when you get your first great view of the Crestones. Where are you supposed to go in this area? The trail seems to get lost here in a big field of tall grass which then blends into thick willows. I tried following the faint trail here, but got sick of the bushwack and ended up scaling some slabby terrain to the left of the creek (blue line). On the way down, I managed to take a talus slope to the far left of the area to bypass the whole thing, but it was still a decent amount of brush (orange line). Is there a correct method to get around this without bringing your machete? Perhaps stick to the right of the creek (counter to the map in Roach's book)?

vandy wrote:I actually had a lot more trouble in the big meadow section, when you get your first great view of the Crestones. Where are you supposed to go in this area?

Yeah, surprised us a little with the remaining effort to get to base of the Red Gully from the top of that waterfall too. We followed pretty close to your blue line both up and down. I think we were a little further left going up, hitting more rocks before the willows. We didn't come across anything more difficult than the waterfall area. There was a group of campers packing up on the far end of that meadow when we topped the waterfall. So, we went over to chat with them and never noticed any options near your orange line. They also whacked the willows near your blue route on separate days getting to Needle then Peak. I think the alternative highpilgrim described is closer to your orange line, or maybe even further/higher to the left.

I don't necessarily think our route/blue line is the best option, but it works. We were happy to get above those willows and camp at the lake rather than trying to get through it in the morning when the grass/willows might be wet.