The Sawtooth

[desertdog]

Did anyone do the Sawtooth this past weekend? I was wonder how much snow/ice was still on it? I saw the Bierstadt postes, but they don't get to the Sawtooth. I am thinking of doing it this Sunday. Thanks for your feedback!

[MatB]

From what I could see from Gray Wolf Mtn the descent off of Bierstadt toward the sawtooth was covered with snow (didn't look avoidable). I don't have any pics and I'm sure there is someone else out there that good a better look. Good luck.

[James Scott]

About a week or so ago, someone posted that the Sawtooth itself looked dry. I am planning on doing this via Abyss Lake on Monday, so I would appreciate any pictures or info on that basin if anyone has a picture.
Desertdog- please post how it goes on Sunday- I'm taking a couple of friends for their first class three scramble, and they're a little nervous. If it's too dicey, I would really appreciate the help so I can put it off a week or so.

[MatB]

I would be careful off that descent of Bierstadt if snow is still lingering and you don't have the necessary tools. There was a fatal accident there a few years ago because someone slipped on the snow and slid into the boulders below. The ramp/ledge of the Sawtooth did look dry though.

[blazintoes]

This was taken from Evans on June 9th. If you zoom in you can see the kick steps down Bierstadt (lots of snow still)

[climbnowworklater]

I was planning on the "tour de abyss" for Friday the 28th and wondered about the Bierstadt issue. Anyone who does the "tour" would be helping out if any pics could be posted or TR's written. Thanks in advance if it happens.

[justiner]

I did the Sawtooth last Thur - there's no current unavoidable snow until you get to the last part of the route. Using the description from here:

https://14ers.com/routemain.php?route=b ... =Mt.+Evans" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The are described, " Climb up as far as you feel comfortable, turn right, and scramble around to easier terrain on the east side of the gendarme. Photo #8 shows some of the climbing.", had some snow in it, that wasn't very useful for climbing on - it's soft on the top, and icy on the bottom, so no good purchase anywhere. The terrain was pretty steep too. When I got to this gully, I just climb up using the rock face to the right, which worked well, but judge your own confidence/comfort level.

I wanna say the crappy, gravel-filled climb here:

https://14ers.com/photos/mtbierstadt/mRBier_413.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

was also snowed in, so get a good early start and bring some crampons/ice axe. Here's what it looks like, looking back:

sawtoothroute.jpg (240.66 KiB) Viewed 899 times

I did the Sawtooth when two other people were attempting it as well. They left around 10 minutes before me, and followed the top of the ridge as much as possible. I quickly passed them, and was watching them from the summit of the Sawtooth, as they were on top of the final, "tooth" trying to figure out what the hell they're next move was going to be. I'm not too familiar to say if there's a way easily directly off the tooth, to rejoining the route, as it goes around to the West of the final obstacle and up that ramp, I'm saying is snowed in. If not, they would have had a hell of time going up that snow slope - it's an unprotected drop down toward G. Pass. I was almost at West Evans, when the finally came back into view, a little below the summit of the Sawtooth. Not sure what the final story was.

[metalmountain]

I would be careful off that descent of Bierstadt if snow is still lingering and you don't have the necessary tools. There was a fatal accident there a few years ago because someone slipped on the snow and slid into the boulders below. The ramp/ledge of the Sawtooth did look dry though.

This didn't happen on the descent from the summit of Bierstadt, it happened on the Sawtooth itself, after the first pinnacle you climb over/around. Coming off of the summit isn't too bad as far as my memory serves me though. I think I remember plunge stepping down to the point where we started traversing.

[desertdog]

Thanks all for the great info. Justiner thanks for sharing the at.l route. James, I'll post info. if we end up doing it. Trying to decide between this or San Juans. Richard

[justiner]

oh - just realize, I don't know if that alt route of continuing on the top of the Sawtooth worked out for those two gentlemen - all the times I've done the route, I've followed fairly closely what's on the guide on this site. I'd hate for you to get stuck at that last "tooth", with no way to easily get down, without a rappel.

[FCSquid]

sawtoothroute.jpg

That "Slippery" section you highlighted can also be avoided by staying lower on the traverse.



The yellow line shows the lower route that turns left more quickly, the blue line I believe may be the way you went. So it looks like the snow may be avoidable?

[justiner]

It's hard to tell, but it looks like the area that was holding snow, was sort of the where the yellow and blue line converge @ 5 o'clock - the triangle area, if you use the cliff edge in the foreground as the 3rd side. Wasn't into the yellow line myself, but if that works, go for it.


I hate hate hate those loose, gravely inclines. I had crampons and an ice axe - way better feeling to be on a West facing ridge @ 8:30 am than take the gravely loose incline

Bet by this weekend things are going to be widely different - way less snow fer sure.