Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Colorado 14er peak questions, condition requests and other info.
User avatar
Delos
Posts: 1
Joined: 4/22/2009
14er Checklist (9)

Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby Delos » Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:23 pm

I am considering climbing these 3 during the week of June 10th but am unsure of typical conditions at that time. Any suggestions on climbing those 3 during early June? Thanks.
User avatar
Jim Davies
Posts: 7863
Joined: 6/8/2006
14er Checklist (58)
14ers in Winter (1)
13er Checklist (61)

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby Jim Davies » Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:27 pm

The Trip Report page has an option to select by peak and month. You can probably find several representative reports there. I'd guess "snowy", but the way this winter has been going, who knows...
Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall — it's great when you stop. -- Chris Darwin
User avatar
Carl
Posts: 1877
Joined: 5/20/2007
14er Checklist (58)
14ers Skied (58)
13er Checklist (30)

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby Carl » Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:34 pm

Last year you could wear trail runners and bring an axe for the short sections of snow above treeline. Below is a pic from the summit of Mt. Wilson in early June two years ago when snowline started at 10,000ft. A typical year is somewhere in between. We're below average snowpack now but things can change. Ask again in May. And in the meantime you can check out the TRs as Jim suggests.
Image
User avatar
SurfNTurf
Posts: 1676
Joined: 8/20/2009
14er Checklist (58)
14ers in Winter (25)
13er Checklist (58)

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby SurfNTurf » Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:45 pm

We did Mt. Wilson and Wilson Peak from Navajo Basin late last May, in an abysmally low snow year.

If you're comfortable on snow, climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger. The tradeoff is that the cruxes and routefinding are a little more "interesting."

El Diente is far easier from the Kilpacker side in dry summer conditions.
“There are two kinds of climbers: those who climb because their heart sings when they’re in the mountains, and all the rest.” - Alex Lowe

"There have been joys too great to describe in words, and there have been griefs upon which I cannot dare to dwell; and with those in mind I say, 'Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.'" - Edward Whymper
User avatar
GeezerClimber
Posts: 553
Joined: 8/9/2011
14er Checklist (58)
13er Checklist (15)

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby GeezerClimber » Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:25 pm

We climbed Wilson Peak last year on 6/19 from the rock of ages TH. The north slope leading to the ROA saddle was a frustrating combo of deep, soft snow and wet, soft scree. An ice axe was necessary and I used the shaft to help me through the scree. It took a long time. Once past the saddle, there was no snow but plenty remained on Mt Wilson's north face. Bear in mind that last year's snow pack was one of the lightest ever. I think an early June climb on these three in a typical year should only be attempted by parties with a lot of snow climbing experience. I'll bet it's a great experience for those who qualify.

Dave
User avatar
Fisching
Posts: 479
Joined: 10/10/2009
14er Checklist (58)
14ers in Winter (10)
13er Checklist (34)

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby Fisching » Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:31 pm

SurfNTurf wrote:We did Mt. Wilson and Wilson Peak from Navajo Basin late last May, in an abysmally low snow year.

If you're comfortable on snow, climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger. The tradeoff is that the cruxes and routefinding are a little more "interesting."

El Diente is far easier from the Kilpacker side in dry summer conditions.


The portion of ice we did on the crux just below the summit of Mt. Wilson would be my definition of "sketch." And the route remaining from Wilson Peak's false summit to its true summit was no different in regards to the icy conditions. It was a slow moving process to carefully gain the summit. Maybe it will be warmer when you intend to do it (we did it on a colder-than-usual Memorial Day weekend), and it'll diminish these concerns.
Peter Aitchison on the risks of rock climbing and mountaineering: "That's life, isn't it? We think the challenge and satisfaction you get from doing this is worth the risks."
"Respect the mountain. Train hard. Hope you can sneak up when it isn't looking."
"The mind is always worried about consequences, but the heart knows no fear. The heart just does what it wants."
User avatar
dillonsarnelli
Posts: 192
Joined: 12/5/2011
14er Checklist (58)
14ers in Winter (18)
13er Checklist (163)
Contact:

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby dillonsarnelli » Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:45 pm

SurfNTurf wrote:climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger

i hear it's a tad bit windy in Navajo Basin though...
Dillon Sarnelli
Basecamp, CO
User avatar
wildlobo71
Posts: 2173
Joined: 4/1/2008
14er Checklist (58)
14ers in Winter (6)
13er Checklist (40)

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby wildlobo71 » Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:28 pm

dillonsarnelli wrote:
SurfNTurf wrote:climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger

i hear it's a tad bit windy in Navajo Basin though...


Only when you are there.
You've never really stopped even if you feel like you have.
User avatar
Fisching
Posts: 479
Joined: 10/10/2009
14er Checklist (58)
14ers in Winter (10)
13er Checklist (34)

Re: Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak, El Diente

Postby Fisching » Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:21 am

SurfNTurf wrote: Climbing the Wilsons in spring mitigates the rockfall danger.


Daytrippinng it also mitigates marmot danger. Don't underestimate this factor.
Image
Peter Aitchison on the risks of rock climbing and mountaineering: "That's life, isn't it? We think the challenge and satisfaction you get from doing this is worth the risks."
"Respect the mountain. Train hard. Hope you can sneak up when it isn't looking."
"The mind is always worried about consequences, but the heart knows no fear. The heart just does what it wants."

Return to “14ers”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests