8000m Research/Expedition Planning

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mts4602
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8000m Research/Expedition Planning

Post by mts4602 »

I've been reading a lot of books lately on 8000m peaks and it has got me thinking about how climbers go about researching and planning an expediton to one of these peaks. I love the planning/logistics aspect of a trip, and while I have no plans to attempt 8000m anytime soon, I do like to read about it and satifsfy my curiousity on the subject. (Basically I get bored at work and plan hypothetical trips :) )

I've tried researching route info/logistics for several 8000m peaks and it has been difficult to find much of anything other than guided companies websites, other people's trip reports, or just general information. If I were heading to Nepal today I wouldn't know the first direction to walk to find the "trail" if there is one. The only thing I can think of is that by the time someone has the experience to attempt something like this they have probably met a few other people that have done it before. It seems like you might have to contact those people and get a lot of information from them. I know maps are readily available for a lot of places, but route info/beta seems hard to come by.

Has anybody planned their own expedition to an 8000m peak? I'd love to hear about how you went about doing that.

Matt
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EatinHardtack
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Re: 8000m Research/Expedition Planning

Post by EatinHardtack »

Contact jbchalk on here. He and his wife did Everest on their own.
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Re: 8000m Research/Expedition Planning

Post by jbchalk »

Well, not hardly on our own :) If you mean with the help of an outfitter for all logistics, permits, on mountain food, supplies, and O2 systems as well as the undying and neverending support of the Sherpa, then yes, on our own :) But, right, there was no guide. I honestly cannot imagine the logistics involved of doing everything on one's own. It would probably entail spending the winter over there, securing O2, buying tanks, masks, organizing sherpa, permits, yaks, food for 60 days, etc. I mean I like planning for a trip, but not that much. No thank you.
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Re: 8000m Research/Expedition Planning

Post by I Man »

jbchalk wrote:Well, not hardly on our own :) If you mean with the help of an outfitter for all logistics, permits, on mountain food, supplies, and O2 systems as well as the undying and neverending support of the Sherpa, then yes, on our own :) But, right, there was no guide. I honestly cannot imagine the logistics involved of doing everything on one's own. It would probably entail spending the winter over there, securing O2, buying tanks, masks, organizing sherpa, permits, yaks, food for 60 days, etc. I mean I like planning for a trip, but not that much. No thank you.

So awesome!!!

I think "Logistics only" is how a lot of amatuer climbers get their 8000ers (and other expeditions) done. I know my group is not remotely looking at the possibiltiy of going completely on our own.
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mts4602
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Re: 8000m Research/Expedition Planning

Post by mts4602 »

jbchalk wrote:Well, not hardly on our own :) If you mean with the help of an outfitter for all logistics, permits, on mountain food, supplies, and O2 systems as well as the undying and neverending support of the Sherpa, then yes, on our own :) But, right, there was no guide. I honestly cannot imagine the logistics involved of doing everything on one's own. It would probably entail spending the winter over there, securing O2, buying tanks, masks, organizing sherpa, permits, yaks, food for 60 days, etc. I mean I like planning for a trip, but not that much. No thank you.
What outfitter did you use? Searching online I can only find guided trips.

I think I am thinking of more along the lines of route info than logistics.
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Re: 8000m Research/Expedition Planning

Post by jbchalk »

mts4602 wrote:
jbchalk wrote:Well, not hardly on our own :) If you mean with the help of an outfitter for all logistics, permits, on mountain food, supplies, and O2 systems as well as the undying and neverending support of the Sherpa, then yes, on our own :) But, right, there was no guide. I honestly cannot imagine the logistics involved of doing everything on one's own. It would probably entail spending the winter over there, securing O2, buying tanks, masks, organizing sherpa, permits, yaks, food for 60 days, etc. I mean I like planning for a trip, but not that much. No thank you.
What outfitter did you use? Searching online I can only find guided trips.

I think I am thinking of more along the lines of route info than logistics.
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