Any Nemesis Peaks?

Have an interesting or epic climbing story? Post it here.
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Postby summitrunner » Mon Jul 30, 2007 12:09 am

I hope it isn't Handies for me. This past Saturday my partner and I did not summit Handies from Grizzly Gulch (both of our first times). We got a late start. My partner started to get sick towards the top. The weather was looking nasty over Redcloud and Sunshine. I told her at about 13,500+, "We're done!" I let her regain her senses and we ran down to the parking lot and got off the dirt road before the weather set in. It was so beautiful I am not upset at all. My friend was 100% better on the drive back. Handies I am coming back for you!
"To give anything less than your best is to sacrifice the gift." PRE
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Postby Scott P » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:35 am

Does anyone else have mountains that they are starting to feel like a curse is keeping them from summiting like I do?

Yes. It's Timpanogos (Utah in winter). Here are two of my trip reports: ... pped-.html ... tempt.html

Here is the mountain: ... nogos.html

I don't know what it is, but the mountain just doesn't like me in the winter. :wink:
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Cross This One Off!

Postby Greenhouseguy » Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:00 pm

I crossed one of my nemesis peaks off of my list today. In August 2006, I was denied on my attempt to summit Mt. Evans via Gomer Gully. A freak hail/snow storm appeared over the ridge, and lightning was flashing a little bit too close for comfort. Here's a pic:


I tried again on September 27th, and should have brought snowshoes. I tried booting it, but progress was slow because I kept postholing. I made it to the western end of Evans' West Ridge, but couldn't find the trail in the snow. It's a good thing, because I postholed all the way down and barely made it back to my car before dark:


I played hooky today, and made my third attempt. Everything went like clockwork. I found the CFI trail through the willows, and never lost it from one end to the other. I still wound up wearing half of the bog. It's a great hike, though. I'm just relieved that it didn't decide to smack me down again.
"May your boulder be your blessing." - Aron Ralston
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Postby ClimbandMine » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:38 pm

North Face Route on Notchtop. Between 1998 and 2002 I took my ice tools for a walk to Odessa Gorge six times and got stormed off all six. Actually got to the base once, but avy conditions were scary, and my partners and I wisely called it a day. Between to postholing, the timing, avy conditions, whiteouts, it got old. Haven't been back since I moved back to Colorado.
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Postby jbueling » Tue Jul 31, 2007 10:58 am

Hearing all the other heart-broken stories of near misses makes me want to break the solemn vow of silence made a few moons ago. I won't mention names though. Names such as Newdizzle of Erie Colorado.

longs '05 sept ice beyond the keyhole + doc martens - common sense = no summit.
'06 aug worked out pretty well, though.
"If you don't know where you're going, you might end up somewhere else."
-Yogi Berra
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Postby rider » Tue Jul 31, 2007 12:24 pm

Long's ... Long's was my second 14er, and I had to learn the hard way that September was not a good climbing month due to early snows. Plus, I had to learn the hard way that early starts were required. I finished Long's on my third attempt.

Wilson Peak ... Wilson Peak was next after Long's ... 1st attempt got off route and ran out of water (actually was climbing the wrong mountain ... but this pre-dated my using the internet and having access to pictures). 2nd attempt was on snow all day and the last 150 feet was too dicey. 3rd non-attempt was snowing too hard at the trailhead to even start. 4th attempt success.
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Postby colorado yooper » Tue Jul 31, 2007 12:25 pm

Mt Challenger, North Cascades, Washington State. Look it up, it is a beastly little mountain. Two weeks, two plane tickets, 70lb packs, hard working out, and great memories. Damn you Fred Becky!
To the High Crags!
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Postby telekelley » Tue Jul 31, 2007 12:30 pm

Columbia - tried 3 times in July alone. ARGH!
"You don't get to choose how you're going to die, or when. You can only decide how you're going to live now." - Joan Baez
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Postby White Light » Mon Aug 13, 2007 7:45 pm

For me it's Longs. I have tried three times now and each time I am turned back at the keyhole by weather. Hang in there with Evans. It took me three tries to summit it via the Chicago lakes route. When you get it it is that much sweeter.
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Postby jsype » Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:34 pm

Gannett Peak -- Two times defeated by wide-open bergschrund and not the right gear.

Of 14ers -- Snowmass once (brought crampons, needed snowshoes!) and Maroon Peak (or South Maroon Pk :wink: ) -- broken thumb by direct hit from rock fall. Turns out, the broken thumb from Maroon prevented me from going after Gannett a planned third time the following month!!!
Doubly happy, however, is the man to whom lofty mountain-tops are within reach --John Muir
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Postby Bullwinkle » Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:01 pm

I have admittedly not made the number of attempts of some others here, but I have never been turned back due to conditions among the dozens of peaks between Colorado, South America and Europe. I have never started pre-dawn and often have limited climbing day options. I pay close attention to weather conditions, but I'll admit, it is partly just luck of the draw. I have been very fortunate. Closest encounters were:

* La Plata - Storm blew over halfway up, then it cleared off. We summited, and then had some intermittent rain on the way down. Within minutes of getting in the car, a veritable deluge let loose.
* Longs - It was an odd July with all-day rain in the mountains for days. On my last day I hit the trail in cool, misty conditions. It was that way all day--which kept the crowds away, but I didn't see much scenery up or back.
* Sherman - It snowed on the parade and fireworks in Breck that year and there was sizable new snow depth in the mountains. With weather clearing and running out of days, I made an ascent of Sherman w/o snowshoes with average new snow depth of 18" (some 5' drifts) and gale force winds. By the time I got back to the car things had calmed down and the next day I did Quandary in shirtsleeves.

I am always willing to turn back as conditions warrant. I have simply had good fortune.
As a mountain more fully reveals itself to a man, so the true nature of the man will be more fully revealed
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Postby Derek » Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:11 am

Well, going back to my original post, I will be making my next and hopefully last attempt at Evans via guanella pass sunday.
Wish me luck.

(BTW, if anyone cares to join, more than welcome)

"I used to think my Dad was Elvis. But I haven't told him that yet. I haven't told my Dad either." -S. Murdoch

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