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West Ridge of Dallas
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West Ridge of Dallas
Does anyone have information about Dallas' West Ridge? Trying to figure out if it would be possible to stay ridge proper from Dallas to the saddle with West Dallas
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John Prater
- Posts: 216
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Re: West Ridge of Dallas
Dan Mottinger and I climbed the couloir that reaches the West Dallas-Dallas saddle from the north, then traversed to the summit of Dallas (photos).
From the saddle, we roped up for one pitch climbing directly out of the saddle. I remember that being pretty exciting - loose, runout?, leading it in boots. Probably easier than 5.6, though, or I probably wouldn't have gotten up it. We'd briefly considered traversing around to the south to get out of the notch (this photo), but that didn't look too appealing, I guess. Don't recall exactly why.
After climbing out of the saddle, it was easy walking for a while, followed by a little scrambling, until we hit a narrow, exposed section of ridge leading to the summit. We roped up for this last section. I think this was just easy 5th class but quite exposed. After that, I think we were at the point where the standard route hits the ridge, just below the summit.
There are some photos in there looking at the terrain getting out of the saddle going toward West Dallas (this, this). It looked horribly loose and difficult, but maybe it's not as bad as it looked? Maybe traverse a bit lower before heading up toward West Dallas?
I remember years ago hearing about a climber, I think Mike Pennings, doing a traverse of the Sneffels range from east to west that would have included all of this, but I don't have any details unfortunately.
From the saddle, we roped up for one pitch climbing directly out of the saddle. I remember that being pretty exciting - loose, runout?, leading it in boots. Probably easier than 5.6, though, or I probably wouldn't have gotten up it. We'd briefly considered traversing around to the south to get out of the notch (this photo), but that didn't look too appealing, I guess. Don't recall exactly why.
After climbing out of the saddle, it was easy walking for a while, followed by a little scrambling, until we hit a narrow, exposed section of ridge leading to the summit. We roped up for this last section. I think this was just easy 5th class but quite exposed. After that, I think we were at the point where the standard route hits the ridge, just below the summit.
There are some photos in there looking at the terrain getting out of the saddle going toward West Dallas (this, this). It looked horribly loose and difficult, but maybe it's not as bad as it looked? Maybe traverse a bit lower before heading up toward West Dallas?
I remember years ago hearing about a climber, I think Mike Pennings, doing a traverse of the Sneffels range from east to west that would have included all of this, but I don't have any details unfortunately.
Re: West Ridge of Dallas
Joe Stiles might be a good one to ask as he's been working on many of those traverses and talks about W Dallas to Dallas on MP. I think Papi and them bypassed north on loose crap.
I take it you've seen the MP page on Dallas' S Couly and Joe's reply to my question about it in winter? I'm totally gonna beat you to that route. No big deal. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/south ... /108428110
I take it you've seen the MP page on Dallas' S Couly and Joe's reply to my question about it in winter? I'm totally gonna beat you to that route. No big deal. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/south ... /108428110
"The road to alpine climbing is pocked and poorly marked, ending at an unexpectedly closed gate 5 miles from the trailhead." - MP user Beckerich
Re: West Ridge of Dallas
Thanks fellas...
John. That is exactly what I was looking for. Those pictures are great and make me feel warm inside. Is it summer yet?
Ryan. That's funny. I looked at that page today and didn't even notice your comment at the bottom. Twisted minds think alike. But you can have that couloir. I'm not a big fan of ropes.
John. That is exactly what I was looking for. Those pictures are great and make me feel warm inside. Is it summer yet?
Ryan. That's funny. I looked at that page today and didn't even notice your comment at the bottom. Twisted minds think alike. But you can have that couloir. I'm not a big fan of ropes.
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TomPierce
- Posts: 2736
- Joined: 11/21/2007
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Re: West Ridge of Dallas
Mike: Really interesting photo/line. Given the aspect (a bit southern), it might very well work out as a winter line. Still looks like a prudent party would bring a short rope, but maybe it'd go OK solo?
Only fwiw, Gladbach sent me a PM years ago and described the line he took when he soloed Dallas in the winter. It was a variation of the standard route, although he was emphatic it wan't the usual northern line up the summit block. I'm kicking myself that I apparently deleted that PM. Anyway, he described a hole he crawled through, then he traversed around the face and up. I went up there once a few years ago and tried to figure out what he was talking about, and found a hole in the back of the cave you ordinarily rap into. We climbed up and out of the back the cave, just big enough to squeeze through without a pack, about 5.0 in boots and crampons. That allows you to bypass that thuggish sandbagged chimney pitch on the standard route. From there it's easy to access the standard route, but Steve apparently went L instead of R there. I could see the line, but we were there very late in the day, near sunset, in winter conditions (October, but immediately after a heavy snowfall), and decided to retreat. I think there's a TR here that describes the variation. Just fyi.
Good luck if you go for it, be safe!
-Tom
Only fwiw, Gladbach sent me a PM years ago and described the line he took when he soloed Dallas in the winter. It was a variation of the standard route, although he was emphatic it wan't the usual northern line up the summit block. I'm kicking myself that I apparently deleted that PM. Anyway, he described a hole he crawled through, then he traversed around the face and up. I went up there once a few years ago and tried to figure out what he was talking about, and found a hole in the back of the cave you ordinarily rap into. We climbed up and out of the back the cave, just big enough to squeeze through without a pack, about 5.0 in boots and crampons. That allows you to bypass that thuggish sandbagged chimney pitch on the standard route. From there it's easy to access the standard route, but Steve apparently went L instead of R there. I could see the line, but we were there very late in the day, near sunset, in winter conditions (October, but immediately after a heavy snowfall), and decided to retreat. I think there's a TR here that describes the variation. Just fyi.
Good luck if you go for it, be safe!
-Tom
Re: West Ridge of Dallas
I would love to see Steve's pictures from that trip. I remember him telling me about it, but had a hard time understanding how he eventually got up. I'm pretty sure he spent many hours (8 if my memory is correct), just trying to find a way up the summit block.
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TallGrass
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Re: West Ridge of Dallas
Those are the Chock It Up routes in Roach's 13er book. The one away from the face (right side as you enter under the chockstone) is easier, the left one more jammy. There's also the 5.7 Flake variation on the northish side which is less likely to be filled in with snow.TomPierce wrote:he described a hole he crawled through, then he traversed around the face and up. I went up there once a few years ago and tried to figure out what he was talking about, and found a hole in the back of the cave you ordinarily rap into. We climbed up and out of the back the cave, just big enough to squeeze through without a pack, about 5.0 in boots and crampons. That allows you to bypass that thuggish sandbagged chimney pitch on the standard route.
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TomPierce
- Posts: 2736
- Joined: 11/21/2007
- Trip Reports (2)
Re: West Ridge of Dallas
Mike,
OK, I spent 20 mins looking over every Dallas TR for the one I mentioned above. It's gone. Maybe some posts fell out when Bill did that upgrade recently? I have a hard time thinking I would also have deleted Steve's PM to me. Certainly not pointing fingers, just baffled. Oh well, c'est la vie...
That aside, I ran into Steve the week after he did Dallas (I was going down, he up, the Harvard/Columbia trail one March). He commented that Dallas was a 26 hour day, and he later commented in a PM to me that he thought it was close to his edge, maybe too close. Wallowing in waste deep snow, etc. But I distinctly recall the comments he made to me as mentioned above. You can see the hole I mentioned in a few Dallas TR photos here, fwiw. It wasn't a super hard exit but it was sporty in winter gear, although I don't recall putting any pro in. But a snug fit getting out, I ripped a hole in a cuben fiber pack I was using, I was ticked about that afterwards. Once out of the hole, there is a line directly in front of you, look west and up. Looks to be about 5.6, maybe more. Do-able for sure, but way more than I would solo given the unknown quality of holds; a fall would end poorly. But protectable. We didn't try when I scouted it, it looked stiffer than I wanted to launch on in gloves/boots/crampons at dusk. Anyway, Steve for sure mentioned a traverse around the face. I saw the traversing ledge, it went to the left from the hole exit and was right above the hole into which you rap on the standard descent. Do-able, but on possibly loose rock above an obvious drop. If you went around the face I think (?) you may hit the line described in the Mountain Project route description re: Dallas' "Descent Line" or something like that. 5.7? But there may be another line there too, farther on. Maybe it intersects the 5-ish line in John Prater's photos? (John, cool route and pics, btw...) That old TR I mentioned suggested their line was easier than 5.7. But that's speculation on my part, and sorry, no photos to share.
It'd be a fun, intriguing exploration. Good luck!
-Tom
OK, I spent 20 mins looking over every Dallas TR for the one I mentioned above. It's gone. Maybe some posts fell out when Bill did that upgrade recently? I have a hard time thinking I would also have deleted Steve's PM to me. Certainly not pointing fingers, just baffled. Oh well, c'est la vie...
That aside, I ran into Steve the week after he did Dallas (I was going down, he up, the Harvard/Columbia trail one March). He commented that Dallas was a 26 hour day, and he later commented in a PM to me that he thought it was close to his edge, maybe too close. Wallowing in waste deep snow, etc. But I distinctly recall the comments he made to me as mentioned above. You can see the hole I mentioned in a few Dallas TR photos here, fwiw. It wasn't a super hard exit but it was sporty in winter gear, although I don't recall putting any pro in. But a snug fit getting out, I ripped a hole in a cuben fiber pack I was using, I was ticked about that afterwards. Once out of the hole, there is a line directly in front of you, look west and up. Looks to be about 5.6, maybe more. Do-able for sure, but way more than I would solo given the unknown quality of holds; a fall would end poorly. But protectable. We didn't try when I scouted it, it looked stiffer than I wanted to launch on in gloves/boots/crampons at dusk. Anyway, Steve for sure mentioned a traverse around the face. I saw the traversing ledge, it went to the left from the hole exit and was right above the hole into which you rap on the standard descent. Do-able, but on possibly loose rock above an obvious drop. If you went around the face I think (?) you may hit the line described in the Mountain Project route description re: Dallas' "Descent Line" or something like that. 5.7? But there may be another line there too, farther on. Maybe it intersects the 5-ish line in John Prater's photos? (John, cool route and pics, btw...) That old TR I mentioned suggested their line was easier than 5.7. But that's speculation on my part, and sorry, no photos to share.
It'd be a fun, intriguing exploration. Good luck!
-Tom
