14ers.com

I am deciding on some couloir climbs for this spring and want to get in an amazing place that could be comparable in views as the bells. I would also like a decently challenging route (length and steepness above 30 degrees preferred). Ive seen some cool pictures of American Peak on SP but cant find route details anywhere. Anyone have info on this peak/routes?

Kiefer has a page for the Victory couloir on SP.
http://www.summitpost.org/route/304833/ ... uloir.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There's a ski report here on 14ers from last summer too.
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ec=0&ski=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've climbed the Patriot couloir. Short and not very steep.
I want to go back for the others, maybe this spring/summer.

Roach's Guide to the High 13ers describes routes up the north facing couloirs, Traitor, Independence, Patriot, and Victory.
The Independence couloir on the 4th of July had a nice ring to it a couple of years ago. Independence is the prominent couloir left of the buttress in the center of the picture.

Are these climbs ones that you guys would recommend? how steep/long are they? It looks like a pretty area is it nice in person? whats the Trailhead/approach length?

By the way thanks for the link to keifers page, very nice write up.

Prairie Native wrote:Are these climbs ones that you guys would recommend? how steep/long are they? It looks like a pretty area is it nice in person? whats the Trailhead/approach length?

What rijaca said, Gerry Roach's 13er book covers several of those couloirs. When heading up Handies (assuming you park at the 4WD trailhead) I want to say the approach was maybe 2 - 2.5 miles? Where you turn up for Handies was maybe .5 mile shy of the couloir bases.

If heading up in May/June, you may have to start from way further back causing for a much further approach.
As a side note: American Peak was the unofficial name until I made it official. My 2nd peak naming to date.

Must be cool to say that you have named a peak. What process makes it official? Which other one did you name? Hmm...hopefully the approach isn't too bad. Last year I went to the Bells before they had unlocked the gate. Added quite a bit more mileage. Especially in plastic boots . Then when we came back down 3 days later we were met by the mobs and not offered a ride back to the car . Course i don't know if i wanted me in MY car. My feet blistered a considerable amount with the non-broke in plastics too. Live and Learn.

You simply fill out a form online on the USGS BGN page. The BGN then goes through a lengthy process soliciting feedback from the local public, county and state officials to see if any objections exist. They then approve it on an agenda for a board meeting vote and then simply vote yes or no. Then you get an official letter from the USGS signed by head Roger Payne. Jennifer Runyon at the board is a great person to work with.