James Peak solo

[habaceeba]

I know, we noobs post too much about James Peak, but I'm a backcountry noob (Avy 1 cert) with an AT setup and I'm thinking of a solo trip up James this weekend. The weather and avy forecast look good for a Sunday SOLO ascent. I'm checking my bases - Am I missing anything that should make me rethink this in any way?

[TomPierce]

A solo of James in the winter?!? Yer gonna die...



OK, if you still plan to go...A fun day in the winter, usually. I have no idea how good the skiing will be, might be really fun but James is notorious for being windy, it could be a bit wind scoured/hard pack. The primary avalanche concern is the left side area going up the St. Mary's "glacier," right of the lake itself. IMO easy to avoid, but be mindful of it if the weather falls apart and you're in limited visibility conditions. Don't want to drift over there esp if alone and esp if there's been recent snow. Next: Almost always windy at the throat/top of the glacier, might want to pack goggles and a balaclava (essential winter gear anyway, IMO...). Once up on the plateau you will diagonal left toward the peak. Note the rock pile not quite halfway there, a good landmark. A tip: I'd take a compass bearing if the weather looks iffy at all, not so much to get to the peak, but if the weather falls apart while you're coming back, that stretch between the peak and back to the glacier is pretty featureless, easy to get off course in a whiteout. As for the peak itself, the ridge to climber's right is the best line up and down, but note you will be going up where several classic couloirs top out (Sky Pilot, etc.), don't get super close if it's really windy, you could get blown down one. Hardly likely, just be aware it'll be steep to climber's right on the way up.

I think it's a great, fun solo workout, I've done it many times. Have fun but of course be careful.

-Tom

[Greenhouseguy]

The three avy deaths that I can recall were all on the steep slope directly above the lake. Two were hikers/climbers, and one was a snowmobiler who was highpointing on the slope. There's no reason to go on that slope if James Peak is your goal; just stay on the right side of the "glacier" on the way up, and risk is minimal.

[daverflave]

I dont know if it is against the forum rules to post this, but this website has helped me with some of my winter and spring skiing.

http://www.frontrangeskimo.com/james-peak/

[TomPierce]

Member ayeyo posted a thread on Dec 21, 2015 with nice pictures of a common slide zone on St. Mary's. Maybe worth a look. Sorry, on my phone, hard to copy and paste the link.
-Tom

[TomPierce]

Found it:

http://www.14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=48576

And here's the area Greenhouseguy mentioned:

http://denver.cbslocal.com/2016/01/23/a ... s-glacier/

IMO all of these areas are easy to avoid, esp the steep area above the lake. But as mentioned that area is frequently windy and limited visibility is common. You can't avoid what you can't see. Just steer to the right side of the glacier as you go up.

-Tom

[pw]

I don't know how the distance would compare relative to going up from St Marys, but you can also drive up to Alice, then walk the road that goes up to Loch Lomond. From the lake, you just cross the dam, up the hill and angle over to the peak. I'm pretty sure there would be no avalanche danger on this route.

[AlexeyD]

In addition to everything already mentioned, the only other thing I'd mention is that I'm not sure how good of a ski James Peak is going to be right now. Given the lack of recent snowfall, warm temps, and the constantly high winds that this area receives, I'd expect a lot of bare ground between the top of St Marys Glacier and the upper summit cone, and would be prepared for firm, possibly choppy conditions on the snow that is present. Not to say don't do it...just saying that it may not be the most amazing experience right now

[AndyJB444]

Yeah, I "skied" it last Thursday afternoon. It sucked. Expect to carry your skis 3-4 times once you get on the southeast face proper. Shooting star looked pretty thin, too - but looked like someone had climbed it recently at least. Give it until after a good Spring storm.