Kiener's Route weekend late August!

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
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Kiener's Route weekend late August!

Postby Lightspeed82 » Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:28 pm

Ok so here goes; last night I was packed up and ready to leave this morning at 1 am in an attempt to solo Kiener's route. At about 11pm I came to my senses after failing to fall asleep after laying there for 3 hours and decided to postpone. I have lots of experience in the mountains, have summited Longs peak 7 times and this route has been on my to-do list for quite some time. I have never led an alpine climb but have done numerous sport and a limited number of trad pitches in the Boulder area. I figured that a 5.4 (Kiener's) was well within my climbing ability so I thought that I would be fine soloing. My main concern is that I get off route, or climb a wrong pitch that would cost me lots of time or force me to downclimb. I would really like to find someone who has led at least a few low class 5 trad climbs and is willing to show me some of the finer points of mountaineering and accompany me on "one of the finest mountaineering routes in Colorado". I have a 60 m rope and a limited selection of cams/tricams. I am living in Boulder and pretty much have every weekend free and possibly some weekdays if it suits better. Please let me know if you have this route on your hit list and if you would be willing to go up later this month!

-Lance Light
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Re: Kiener's Route weekend late August!

Postby javy20040 » Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:13 pm

Hi Lance,

We did Kiener's last year on late September, wrong call. Lambslide become icy, and alpine climbing became ice-climbing. The first 400 feet is a solid 5.4 if you stay on route. My friend and I found the first move on the first pitch a little hard for a 5.4. Maybe we were tired after ice-climbing Lambslide and being at 13000 feet.
Kiener's is an awesome climb and we had a bless on it. I wont do it SOLO, it is a route were you need a partner at list for the 400 feet of 5.4 and who know the conditions of Lambslide right now.
It is not in my list to do it again, but I will let you know if I change my plans. You can do Kiener's and rappel down on The Cable Route, the North Face.

Please let me know if you have any questions regarding the route.

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The love of the mountains is in my heart, which spreads to the blood which I bleed.
The passion of climbing is in my skin, which is shed when I sweat.
Climbing mountains isn't something that you do; it's a part of you.
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Re: Kiener's Route weekend late August!

Postby ClimbandMine » Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:37 pm

What's wrong with climbing Lamb's slide in September? Nice gray solid ice, dude!

Just don't forget your helmet. :D
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Re: Kiener's Route weekend late August!

Postby pbakwin » Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:48 pm

We climbed Keiners today. I'd say if you can solo the 3rd Flatiron you can solo Keiners provided you stay on route. Route finding isn't too hard if you have a good route description. Right now Lambs is in great shape, but as noted it will tend toward ice as the season progresses. If you climbed today you would have found 4 groups totaling 12 people on the route, making it pretty easy to follow!
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Re: Kiener's Route weekend late August!

Postby MtHurd » Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:38 pm

I climbed it with two others and we soloed the first pitch (didn't realize it was the 5.4 section). It might have been a 5.4, but to me it wasn't that exposed. We did it easily in our climbing boots. We roped up for the second pitch but it was a waste of time because the second pitch was easier than the first. I wouldn't have any problems soloing (no rope) it again, although I would not do it alone. Choose the correct route carefully as getting off route can quickly get more difficult. We actually wandered back and forth on Broadway until we found the correct route. Study it before you go.

Obviously you will need crampons and an axe for Lamb's slide. Snow may all be gone on Broadway but at least into July there is some snow on it that requires crampons. Someone fell off of it recently, so take your time and be careful on Broadway. It is extremely exposed.

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