Partner for Mt. Democrat North Couloir Sunday 7/31?

Need a climbing partner? Trying to form a hiking group for an outing?
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xam_zerep
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Partner for Mt. Democrat North Couloir Sunday 7/31?

Postby xam_zerep » Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:49 pm

Hi all,

I'm looking to do the snow climb up the North Couloir on Democrat on Sunday if anyone is up for it. Basically, the route is described here: http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=3257. It is start at the Montgomery Res, up the North Couloir, up the class 3 to Democrat and loop back over Cameron and Lincoln, and down the class 3 to the trail head. I have some experience with crampon snow climbs (Gatorade on Jasper, Northeast face of Neva, Fair Glacier) but am trying to gain more. I figure it will be 8-10 hrs total. Starting around 5am, but I'm flexible.

-Max
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FireOnTheMountain
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Re: Partner for Mt. Democrat North Couloir Sunday 7/31?

Postby FireOnTheMountain » Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:47 am

Hello, I did Dem's North Ridge 2 weekends ago. Thought you might like to see the condition of what you want to climb (this best pic I got, sorry). Looks pretty good and in just get an early start for rockfall and the like. There was around 25 people near the summit of Dem when I topped out but going up the N Ridge I encountered a grand total of 0 people. Have fun!
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xam_zerep
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Re: Partner for Mt. Democrat North Couloir Sunday 7/31?

Postby xam_zerep » Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:03 am

Thanks FOTM! Very helpful info. -M
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Re: Partner for Mt. Democrat North Couloir Sunday 7/31?

Postby xam_zerep » Tue Aug 02, 2011 2:30 pm

My plans changed and I did the northwest couloir on the citadel instead last sunday. If anyone is interested, I am planning on the democrat climb next sunday 8/7.
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Re: Partner for Mt. Democrat North Couloir Sunday 7/31?

Postby xam_zerep » Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:36 pm

So I am too lazy for a full trip report but it is kinda an awesome loop and a hell of a more interesting way to do Democrat so some info might be of interest to future parties. It took me about 11 hours door to door and about 6.5 hours to get up to Democrat from Montgomery reservoir. Also, the trip down the Lincoln Amphitheater took longer then expected at a little over 2 hours. Some things to note:

1) The North Couloir described by Cooper is not the one shown in the previous report. The 'true' North Couloir is the deeply inset one further north (right). However, their route is more aesthetic as it exits much closure to the summit. It also appears to have a more consistent angle, as the last couple hundred feet on the inset part of the couloir get pretty steep for a single axe route right around 45 degrees. Also, the snow gets nice and hard in there. About halfway up that pitch I moved over to the rocks on the climber's right, which went faster, but the rock is very rotten and not very safe. Looking back, the line described in the previous report might be better given the choice.

2)When descending down the Lincoln Amphitheater, it is absolutely key to find the climber's trail over the last section below the headwall. Otherwise, it would be very easy to get cliffed out. The trail cuts below the giant rock you descend around at the top of the steepest part of the route on the north side of the amphitheater. There are some cairns there to mark the entrance to trail from the top. I found if you find the right trail you can follow it all the way down without any talus hoping and it goes directly to the bridge over the S. Platte next to the reservoir.

Enjoy.

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