Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Info on gear, conditioning, and preparation for hiking/climbing.
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jsdratm
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby jsdratm » Tue Oct 08, 2013 1:05 pm

skik2000 wrote:Are you climbing the DC?


Here are the details: http://www.rmiguides.com/mt-rainier/4-day-summit-climb/

They do either the Disappointment Cleaver or Ingraham Glacier depending on the conditions
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WarDamnPanic
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby WarDamnPanic » Tue Oct 08, 2013 4:55 pm

I wore the Nepal Evos and they did great. That is also the boot RMI rents out, the RMI guides all used Scarpa Phantom Guide boots and they reported that they are not as warm as the Nepal Evos. Good luck it is a great climb
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby bodhi1971 » Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:24 pm

I wore Nepal Evos on the Kautz route this July, they worked great, wetted out a bit during mid day when the sun was melting off and walking out through the Muir snowfield. We carried over and camped in the summit crater, it was 8 degrees and they were fine. Most guides wore them, a few had Scarpa phantoms and Scarpa Omega plastics. Stay away from the Inverno, and the Baruntse will be overkill unless you are going in winter or using them for another climb. The Nepals are comfy and great all around for pretty much anything short of an expedition, but fit is the most important thing ... And making sure your crampons fit correctly and are compatible. If you are doing the DC, Ingrahm, or even Emmons it is pretty much just a slog and a hike if the weather is decent and you will see all types of gear, some people will be outfitted like they are going to Everest.
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Pops921
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby Pops921 » Wed Oct 09, 2013 6:04 am

July or August leather boots are usually fine. Think about warmer versions in other months. Fit is the most important thing. I usually climb Rainier in Nepal's (leather), my feet got a little cold in June one time. I also have a pair of Spantik's which I have also used.

The DC route on Rainier was different above the cleaver this year. In prior years the route traversed to the climbers right onto the Emmons shoulder. In what must have been a spectacular avalanche, the Emmons shoulder collapsed last winter. This forced the route through a mini icefall section directly above the cleaver or a left traverse through Camp Comfort. A series of ladders and fixed lines helped people past the difficulties, this resulted long delay through these points. Long delays means lots of standing around and waiting with opportunities to get cold, warmer boots might be nice. Our summit days was over 17 hours. I don't think the Emmons shoulder is coming back, so expect similar conditions next year. The climbing is fun, the delays are frustrating. We waited over 30 minutes for one rope team that lost their nerve and turned around at the ladder/fixed line section.

The rangers maintain this website about route conditions.

http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby MuchosPixels » Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:40 am

Pops921 wrote:July or August leather boots are usually fine. Think about warmer versions in other months. Fit is the most important thing. I usually climb Rainier in Nepal's (leather), my feet got a little cold in June one time. I also have a pair of Spantik's which I have also used.

The DC route on Rainier was different above the cleaver this year. In prior years the route traversed to the climbers right onto the Emmons shoulder. In what must have been a spectacular avalanche, the Emmons shoulder collapsed last winter. This forced the route through a mini icefall section directly above the cleaver or a left traverse through Camp Comfort. A series of ladders and fixed lines helped people past the difficulties, this resulted long delay through these points. Long delays means lots of standing around and waiting with opportunities to get cold, warmer boots might be nice. Our summit days was over 17 hours. I don't think the Emmons shoulder is coming back, so expect similar conditions next year. The climbing is fun, the delays are frustrating. We waited over 30 minutes for one rope team that lost their nerve and turned around at the ladder/fixed line section.

The rangers maintain this website about route conditions.

http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com


Man, that sucks about the route. The climbing season is short and popular so crowds are always a problem this just exacerbates it.

I agree, it is really surprising how fast one can get very cold feet when standing around even in temps as mild (for mountaineering standards) as the 30's F when using single layer leather boots.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby scholbiwan » Wed Oct 09, 2013 3:09 pm

I climbed Mt. Rainier in August this year via the Kautz ice chute and wore LS Baruntse. My partner also wore LS Nepal Evo's. Both boots did fine. The Baruntse's were nice to walk around in just the liner around camp during down time.

I would recommend not getting the plastics based solely on comfort. I've hiked/climbed in them before, and it's like wearing a downhill ski boot and will rub your feet raw. My partner did Mt. Rainier in plastics and then did it again this year with the Nepal Evo's and he would recommend the Nepal Evo's.

Have fun on Rainier! It is such a great climb!
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby smoove » Wed Oct 09, 2013 3:14 pm

scholbiwan wrote:The Baruntse's were nice to walk around in just the liner around camp during down time.


Ah, yes. I would have killed for an inner boot or down booties to walk around in. Especially considering that I had nasty blisters on my heels. I wanted those Nepals off back at the camp, but had no other footwear to get around in.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby nyker » Wed Oct 09, 2013 3:29 pm

I've only climbed Rainier once, in July. I used La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX (the Red ones) with two pair of socks and my feet were fine, never cold; For what its worth, most guides I saw over the few days on the mountain, had the yellow Nepal Sportivas. I suppose I would say my feel tend to not get very cold on most climbs. On Iztaccihuatl (to the summit of 17k) I wore the yellow Nepals, though honestly think I would have been fine also with the Trangos as my feet were ever cold there either. I've also worn the Trango's on Whitney during a cold fall climb where the temps never got about 15 degrees for the whole climb and were around zero for several hours and even walking in the snow, my feet were warm.
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby valleygirl » Wed Oct 09, 2013 9:01 pm

I climbed Rainier a month ago with IMG, and used rented plastic boots because that's what they recommended. We used tennis shoes below Pebble Creek, though. The plastics were kind of overkill, only because of the gorgeous weather window we enjoyed. It can get nasty up there pretty fast. I was surprised to read that someone had a long cold wait for the ladder above Disappointment Cleaver - we had no wait at all, and in fact we were all really psyched about how much fun the new route was; even the guides were excited about it. What a great climb!
But I still haven't found what I'm looking for.
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jsdratm
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Re: Mountaineering Boots for Rainier

Postby jsdratm » Fri Oct 25, 2013 10:42 am

Thanks for the help everyone! After talking with a guide at RMI and researching online I decided to go with the Nepal Evos. Neptune Mountaineering let me wear them around the store a bit and now I'm wearing them around work to make sure they fit well. I figured that these would be more versatile for Colorado and I don't want to spend more on boots that I will rarely use. If the weather forecast is really bad I can always rent plastics from RMI.

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