Ice climbing conditions

[rpb13]

I figured I'd start a thread for people to post conditions for ice climbing on this site as the season gets going. I'll start: I was at Lincoln Falls yesterday. The Scottish Gully was about 50% in: Pitch 1 was in (WI3-) and was a fun little climb, Pitch 2 was not yet formed at the bottom but was formed up at the top (WI2- at most), Pitch 3 is not in yet (was all nasty looking chandelier ice) but is well on its way. We looked around but didn't see anything else that was ready yet, but lots of stuff is on its way and will hopefully be in sometime in the next couple of weeks. Let the season begin!

[LadyClimber]

There is a thread on Mountain project on this very topic...seems like a little more appropriate place

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-20 ... _109660200" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[kushrocks]

For those of us who don't use Mountain Project I am glad there is a thread started here. I can't wait for ice season!!

[Dave B]

Timberline falls was otay. A bit chandeliery.

North gully on Thatchtop looked pretty good if you're up for the long boulder hopping ascent.

Nothing yet at Loch Vale.

For those of us who don't use Mountain Project...

Huh? Not use MP? But it's the pinnacle of maturity and a solid representation of all that is good in the world... /pink

In all honesty. I'm not a big fan of that thread on MP or the ones in the past. I am a fan, however, of taking the tools for a walk and seeing what you get.

Alexanders was picked out two weeks after coming in to shape and had four parties on it on a Friday (a weekday for #$%*'s sake). This would not have been the case if it weren't for the beta spew thread on MP, Front Range ice climbing could always use a little more mystique IMO.

[rpb13]

I agree with Dave B, so I'm amending this post: I didn't climb at Lincoln Falls yesterday and NOTHING is in. Nobody bother to go out ice climbing, there's nothing to climb! Anywhere! Stay home and watch football!

[AlexeyD]

This would not have been the case if it weren't for the beta spew thread on MP, Front Range ice climbing could always use a little more mystique IMO.

Sigh. This is very true...but then, can we really stop someone from sharing beta if they want to? I'm afraid the only solution is to seek out other, more obscure lines, keep quiet about them and hope that it stays that way at least for a while.

[Mike Shepherd]

Reading MP it seems there are plenty of lines which see hardly any traffic mainly because nobody wants to walk forever to get to them or there is some sort of avalanche risk. Eagle lake in RMNP comes to mind in this regard. I don't believe on these boards a bunch of people are going to go pick your lines to death if you let some beta go. The general consensus I get on here is that people are not interested in ice climbing anyways.

[Dave B]

Sigh. This is very true...but then, can we really stop someone from sharing beta if they want to? I'm afraid the only solution is to seek out other, more obscure lines, keep quiet about them and hope that it stays that way at least for a while.

I'd be a bit of a hypocrite to rail against these beta/conditions oriented threads too much. Afterall, I did a little beta-spewing myself a few posts up and last year I even wrote an entire trip report with ice conditions in Glacier Gorge as the main goal.

Ice climbing has become quite popular and the more accessible places have become swamped and as a result the intermediate access areas are experiencing the overflow. The good news is I think there is a maximum distance ice craggers seems to be willing to walk to top-rope some laps. For example, Peacock Falls is a fun flow with good variety but I've never seen anyone else up there - the 5.5 miles is too far. Similarly, Alexanders Chimney would likely only see a handful of ascents each year if everyone had to actually walk all the way back there just to find out if it was in shape or not.

Nevertheless, I hope I'm not coming across as some kind of snob about this (hell I've only been on ice for the last three seasons) but I think some of the beta threads take a little of the adventure out of climbing.

Strap on the tools and go for a hike, the worst that will happen is that you get to spend the day in the mountains.

[tenpins]

Nevertheless, I hope I'm not coming across as some kind of snob about this (hell I've only been on ice for the last three seasons) but I think some of the beta threads take a little of the adventure out of climbing.

not at all. Suggesting anyone else isnt worthy to know about ice in a public spot. How could you possibly sound like an ass. Any the other folks lamenting the same thing (sigh). You want adventure, GO FIND IT. Its out there in droves. Fortunately there are no climbing police, so too bad for you if something is picked out, maybe you should have been out there sooner instead of on the couch! Internet or no, anything 5 minutes from the road was picked out. 5 mile approach...really I consider that a minimum.

[MyFeetHurt]

Trying to keep Lincoln Falls conditions a secret is both a hopeless and pointless endeavor. It has a 10 minute approach, can be seen from the highway, has beginner friendly pitches, and pretty much anyone who has ever swung a pair of ice tools knows about it. Keeping it a secret would only waste someones gas, as there is no adventure to be had at that location. Enjoy it for what it is, I did.

[England]

Nevertheless, I hope I'm not coming across as some kind of snob about this (hell I've only been on ice for the last three seasons) but I think some of the beta threads take a little of the adventure out of climbing.

not at all. Suggesting anyone else isnt worthy to know about ice in a public spot. How could you possibly sound like an ass. Any the other folks lamenting the same thing (sigh). You want adventure, GO FIND IT. Its out there in droves. Fortunately there are no climbing police, so too bad for you if something is picked out, maybe you should have been out there sooner instead of on the couch! Internet or no, anything 5 minutes from the road was picked out. 5 mile approach...really I consider that a minimum.

Hey, are you that hot dog loving, SAR dude I went up the Y with a few years back? You into ice climbing??? If so hit me up, and we will head over to Lincoln...only on a weekday. Good place to get yourself killed on a weekend.

[Dave B]

Nevertheless, I hope I'm not coming across as some kind of snob about this (hell I've only been on ice for the last three seasons) but I think some of the beta threads take a little of the adventure out of climbing.

not at all. Suggesting anyone else isnt worthy to know about ice in a public spot. How could you possibly sound like an ass. Any the other folks lamenting the same thing (sigh). You want adventure, GO FIND IT. Its out there in droves. Fortunately there are no climbing police, so too bad for you if something is picked out, maybe you should have been out there sooner instead of on the couch! Internet or no, anything 5 minutes from the road was picked out. 5 mile approach...really I consider that a minimum.

You might have missed my point. That's either my fault for not explaining myself properly or yours for agro-raging all over the place.

For all future posts until ~April 2015. Lincoln Falls is in. Hidden Falls is in. A whole lotta of other stuff is in, I recommend taking a hike and finding out for yourself what exactly it is though.