Are there any other noteable unclimbed peaks in the US?...besides in Alaska.
I would certainly call Red Castle in Utah "notable" (it's actually one of the more famous peaks in the state). It is rumored to be unclimbed (I think Brian C and Noah are giving it a shot soon). It has the same color and rock composition as the Maroon Bells, but is much steeper.
Cut and paste from one of my SP post:
............In the Rocky Mountains the highest unclimbed peak
might be Red Castle (~12,700 feet/3870 meters). At least many sources claim that it has been unclimed (the actual Red Castle, not the non-technical mountain [12825] to the south which is sometimes referred to as Red Castle). Here is one:
http://utahikerguy.tumblr.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I really don't know if it's true or not (in fact I'm somewhat skeptical), but in the last 20+ years I have heard from many people that it is still unclimed, or at least has no known ascents.
It actually doesn't
look that bad, but the rock is very bad:
So far all
known attempts failed because of loose rock. For example, I recently recieved this email from SP member Alpinglow84:
I was reading your High Uintas page and was wondering if anyone had sent
any information on climbing Red Castle. Two years ago my partner and I made
an attempt on a technical line on the West Face but were turned back after
two pitches because the rock is practically hardened mud and even good
looking holds (i.e. no fracture lines/well attached) would detach when
weighted. I got curious about what others may have said on the subject.
Thanks
Phil B.
Red Castle has been attempted several times in recent years, but it seems that the story is the always the same and similar to the above. If anyone does know of any ascent of Red Castle, many would be interested in hearing about it............
Even some of the impressive ones in Zion National Park are apparently still unclimbed (though a few were climbed in recent years).
What's even more interesting is that it looks like the south ridge off 7071 might give access to Pt. 6799 (5.x), possibly unclimbed.
Once on the ridge, it looks reasonable, but getting to the ridge looks extremely difficult. Here's a shot of it:
High resolution:
http://images.summitpost.org/original/231238.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It's overhung much of the way on both sides, but it may have a weakness close to where the ridge begins to rise to Peak 7071.
I've heard 6799 is overhanging, etc. but the report on 7071 suggests the capstone was Wingate Sandstone, among the better climbing sandstones. I assume that could be the case on nearby 6799. Hard to say, of course, but trying that connecting ridge would save a bunch of additional climbing.
From my last trip, 6799 looks harder than 7071. For sure it is out of my league. After several years of poking around, 7071 may offer a route that might be promising. I'm not that great of a climber, but it might be possible for me if the route goes and I know the area well.
Strangely, finding the route up Outlaw Peak took 2 1/2 years, but once we found it, it became so painfully obvious that I can easily find my way up there now.
Anyway, I believe the capstone to those peaks is actually the Park City Formation, with Weber Sandstone forming the bulk of the peaks. It is older than the Wingate and the rocks the age of the Wingate are only present farther south on the slopes of the anticline.
The Kayenta formation is more or less missing in Dinosaur NM leaving the Navajo and Wingate as a single formation (a.k.a. Nugget Sandstone or Glen Canyon Sanstone, somtimes called just plain Navajo). In this part of the world, the Glen Canyon/Nugget/Navajo-Wingate is actually very crumbly and nothing like it is in say Indian Creek. It does form some nice slot canyons though. In Dinosaur, the Weber is actually harder than what corresponds to the Wingate age rocks.
