Little Bear Southwest Ridge Advice

[KelanAnzures]

My climbing partner and I are looking at tackling Little Bear Peak tomorrow (7/23). Obviously, after reading everything about the hourglass we would like to avoid it if possible. Does anyone have any experience with the Southwest ridge? I have a few specific questions, but just some general advice/beta would be greatly appreciated. Also if someone else is planning this route for tomorrow (super long shot) we would love some company.

What is the parking situation like? I have heard it is on private property.

How hard is route finding/ bushwacking in the dark?

Overall is this route a better choice for the summer season?

Thank you guys so much. I have read a lot of information on the route, but there just isn't as much on it.

[Wish I lived in CO]

There are some good trip reports on it. The best one by far is by FCSquid from 2010. Great advice there. The only things I would add is that there are technically easier options for traversing down a little lower rather than always staying on the ridge (see my TR). The parking situation - a charged topic that many people differ on. However where you actually park is NF land. You will for sure need 4wd. The bushwacking - for sure bring a GPS and use it (mark the TH so you can find your vehicle later). While the mileage is only about 9 miles, it is a really long day as you are either bushwacking, on miles of talus, or on technical terrain. Have a great hike!

[painless4u2]

The SW Ridge route is a great alternative to Como road, but it is long, hot (in summer) and has a small knife edge to consider (although I understand it can be avoided; I just went over it). The parking can be done either from Como road side and a bushwack over, or next to the private road (NE corner of 24th and Finton). You must also bushwack NE toward Tobin Creek to gain the ridge from there. This could be a little tricky in the dark as there are places you cannot cross the creek easily, unless it has been marked since I did this route. Bring PLENTY of water (even consider a water drop). The ridge is long and you will be exposed to weather for a while. Good luck and enjoy!

[globreal]

My climbing partner and I are looking at tackling Little Bear Peak tomorrow (7/23). Obviously, after reading everything about the hourglass we would like to avoid it if possible. Does anyone have any experience with the Southwest ridge? I have a few specific questions, but just some general advice/beta would be greatly appreciated. Also if someone else is planning this route for tomorrow (super long shot) we would love some company.

What is the parking situation like? I have heard it is on private property.

How hard is route finding/ bushwacking in the dark?

Overall is this route a better choice for the summer season?

Thank you guys so much. I have read a lot of information on the route, but there just isn't as much on it.

I did this route and put up a TR that you might find helpful:

http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepor ... ki=Include" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

On this trip I didn't do the traverse over to Little Bear. I have since done the traverse. In my opinion, it goes easy Class 3 and not that exposed except for one spot on the ridge. It takes me about a 1/2 hour from Little Bear to South Little Bear.

Hope this helps.

[spiderman]

After reading all of the trip descriptions, it seems like the easiest way to get to Mama Bear (already done Little Bear but working on unranked peaks) is to start from Lake Como, summit Little Bear, traverse to Mama Bear, and then cross back to Little Bear/descend to Lake Como. Would people agree? A long day of slogging up talus sounds harder than strolling up the road and trail. Plus I don't have a 4wd vehicle. The hourglass wasn't too bad IMHO if nobody is above you to drop widowmakers.

Is there any class 3/4 way to directly ascend from the hourglass to Mama Bear without first heading up Little Bear?

[BenfromtheEast]

Is there any class 3/4 way to directly ascend from the hourglass to Mama Bear without first heading up Little Bear?

From what I remember and looking back through my photos, I would strongly recommend heading for the LB summit and then traversing to South LB.

Trying to cut off some of the traverse would probably go at loose class 4...in other words, less fun and way more dangerous for you and anyone else who happened to be coming up the Hourglass. I think you would end up connecting with the traverse midway or so rather than going straight to the South LB summit. Considering globreal describes the traverse as easy class 3 and taking about half an hour each way (which sounds about right to me), that would be easier, more fun, and safer. Plus you can enjoy the views from LB again while you're up there. You could probably skip the last bit of the ridge back to the LB summit on your return, maybe saving ten minutes. At that point I'd just go tag the summit again to finish the traverse in both directions.

[Wish I lived in CO]

Is there any class 3/4 way to directly ascend from the hourglass to Mama Bear without first heading up Little Bear?

From what I remember and looking back through my photos, I would strongly recommend heading for the LB summit and then traversing to South LB.

Trying to cut off some of the traverse would probably go at loose class 4...in other words, less fun and way more dangerous for you and anyone else who happened to be coming up the Hourglass. I think you would end up connecting with the traverse midway or so rather than going straight to the South LB summit. Considering globreal describes the traverse as easy class 3 and taking about half an hour each way (which sounds about right to me), that would be easier, more fun, and safer. Plus you can enjoy the views from LB again while you're up there. You could probably skip the last bit of the ridge back to the LB summit on your return, maybe saving ten minutes. At that point I'd just go tag the summit again to finish the traverse in both directions.

Well, actually there is a class 3 way. First let me say that the OP specifically wants to avoid the hourglass, and I wanted nothing to do with it either. The SW ridge is a good alternative to have. So anyway, from the SLB summit we only followed the ridge for a little ways, then went down maybe 30 feet, traversed a 30 foot long ledge, down a short scree ramp, down and across a bowl, then up and over a rock rib to get to the bowl above the hourglass and below the summit. From there a class 3 scramble to the top. If you were coming up the hourglass you would have to look up toward the right and cross the rock ridge, then ascend to the SLB summit in reverse order of the above. I have only one pic. from when climbing that area but could identify the crossing over point of the ridge. If someone actually wants to climb that way then I can send the pic., but I get the feeling this is all talk. And back again to point the OP as I can tell wants nothing to do with the hourglass!