14ers.com

Hello all,

I have some friends coming in who do a lot of mixed climbing and we are looking for some good class 3/4/5 routes to cimb. We have a full trad rack and ice protection, ropes, winter gear, ect and experience in the Cascades and AK.

I was wondering if anyone might have suggestions of good routes given current avy conditions. We have looked at the East Ridge of Bancroft, Cables route on Longs, and a few other less challenging options.

Any and all advice is welcome, and theyll be here Dec 28- Jan 10 so PM me if youre interested in joining, the more the merrier.

Cheers

Did Martha last week and it was pretty fun. M2ish with a nice WI2+ step and incredible views of the Diamond from the top. Flying Dutchman also looked in but I would imagine it as a snow slog right now. Alexanders Chimney still looked in as well, but at WI4 M4 it might be a bit spicy. The only real avy danger getting to these routes is the slope above Peacock Pool, but it was wind blasted pencil-knife hard slab when we did it.

The snow slope before the first pitch on Dream Weaver has been known to slide, but it looked like the pitches were, for the most part, filled in pretty well. Could be a pretty fun route as I imagine it's got ice in it since everything else is fatter than normal.

I went up to do All Mixed Up on Thursday but the snow slope above the last pitch looked way cross-loaded from Mills Lake so we went to Loch Vale/The Crypt instead. NW Gully on Thatchtop looked pretty sweet, but you'd probably want two ropes to rap off of v-threads instead of trying to find the walk off.

Aside from that, Loch Vale is the fattest I've ever seen it and Jewel Lake is looking pretty good to.

Good luck!