Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Colorado 14er peak questions, condition requests and other info.
alwetend
Posts: 24
Joined: 7/18/2010
14er Checklist Not Entered

Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby alwetend » Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:54 am

If you climb up Lambs Slide on Longs past Broadway you will notice there is a couloir that goes off to the right and ends up midway up the beaver. I am not talking about the flying dutchman or the notch couloir. Does anyone know anything about this route and its difficulty? I attached a screen capture from Google Earth for illustrative purposes...
Attachments
Lambs Slide.jpg
Lambs Slide.jpg (281.34 KiB) Viewed 1099 times
User avatar
JohnWilliams
Posts: 471
Joined: 2/5/2009
14er Checklist (9)
14ers Skied (2)
14ers in Winter (1)
13er Checklist (2)

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby JohnWilliams » Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:01 pm

Not sure of its official name but it could be something like 'Lambs Slide Right Fork' or 'Right Variation' Looks like steep snow possibly AI2-3? Depends on the time of year.
I dont believe it's The Eighth Route but maybe somebody else does:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-eighth-route/105878234

Good Question!

John
-I tend to be a Longs Peak nerd. If you have questions about the Longs Peak Massif please, feel free to ask.

But at times I wondered if I had not come a long way only to find that what I really sought was something I had left behind-Tom Hornbein

And this time you gave me a mountain. A mountain I may never climb-Marty Robbins
alwetend
Posts: 24
Joined: 7/18/2010
14er Checklist Not Entered

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby alwetend » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:32 pm

Nope not the 8th route. Only information I can find is in Gillett's book where he calls it the Right Variation as you said. Anyone know anything about the difficulty? After knocking out the major routes on Longs I'm getting more interested in the obscure ones...

JohnWilliams wrote:Not sure of its official name but it could be something like 'Lambs Slide Right Fork' or 'Right Variation' Looks like steep snow possibly AI2-3? Depends on the time of year.
I dont believe it's The Eighth Route but maybe somebody else does:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-eighth-route/105878234

Good Question!

John
TomPierce
Posts: 1737
Joined: 11/21/2007
14er Checklist Not Entered

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby TomPierce » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:45 pm

I've been up in that area many times, but frankly that gully has never caught my eye. It's not the Eighth Route, that starts farther along Broadway (at the Bowl of Tears, aka Yellow Bowl).

So I looked over Gillett's guide but also my out of print Kimball guide ( a real classic, btw). Kimball calls it Zumie's Buttress, which makes absolutely no sense for a snow route; Gillett, however, has a "Zumie's Couloir" on p. 63 of his "RMNP: The Climber's Guide." Cobbling Kimball and Gillett together I'd bet a paycheck that you're talking about Zumie's Couloir. Gillett's guide has a brief description of the murky history behind this route. Doesn't sound all that interesting; if it was good climbing IMO it would have attracted more climbing attention. But then again, almost any route on Longs is worth exploring, no?
-Tom
User avatar
JohnWilliams
Posts: 471
Joined: 2/5/2009
14er Checklist (9)
14ers Skied (2)
14ers in Winter (1)
13er Checklist (2)

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby JohnWilliams » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:55 pm

Zumies Couloir sounds correct. I've read that route somewhere and noticing it runs up under Zumies Thumb makes me think you're right, Tom.

Tom, have you seen the old Paul Nesbit guide to Longs? fantastic classic resourse...

John
-I tend to be a Longs Peak nerd. If you have questions about the Longs Peak Massif please, feel free to ask.

But at times I wondered if I had not come a long way only to find that what I really sought was something I had left behind-Tom Hornbein

And this time you gave me a mountain. A mountain I may never climb-Marty Robbins
TomPierce
Posts: 1737
Joined: 11/21/2007
14er Checklist Not Entered

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby TomPierce » Tue Oct 18, 2011 4:39 am

No, haven't seen the Nesbit guide although Gillett references it occasionally. Maybe I'll stumble across it at a garage sale or something one day.
-Tom
User avatar
Brian C
Posts: 1234
Joined: 2/26/2008
14er Checklist (45)
14ers in Winter (5)
13er Checklist (19)
Contact:

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby Brian C » Tue Oct 18, 2011 5:22 am

TomPierce wrote:No, haven't seen the Nesbit guide although Gillett references it occasionally. Maybe I'll stumble across it at a garage sale or something one day.
-Tom


The Nesbit is on sale used on Amazon for about $5 if you want one.
Brian in the Wild
Lists of John
"Nature never did betray the heart that loved her." - Wordsworth
User avatar
Voodoo302
Posts: 132
Joined: 10/11/2010
14er Checklist (19)
13er Checklist (6)

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby Voodoo302 » Fri Oct 26, 2012 2:20 pm

Alwetend, others - Did you ever climb this or find more info on it? I just spotted it while looking at pictures of the Dutchman and I'm suddenly very intrigued. I think it is called Zumie's Couloir but I'm having trouble finding anything about it other than a few passing references...although that in itself may tell me something.
User avatar
ap snow
Posts: 86
Joined: 4/13/2009
14er Checklist (58)
14ers Skied (58)
14ers in Winter (16)
13er Checklist (20)
Contact:

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby ap snow » Fri Oct 26, 2012 2:49 pm

I have been wondering the name of this small couloir as well. I just sent Jim Detterline a link to this thread... He should know the answer. Also, I skied most of this couloir a few years back. It is pretty steep.
User avatar
Winter8000m
Posts: 441
Joined: 3/16/2008
14er Checklist (29)
14ers in Winter (1)
13er Checklist (2)
Contact:

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby Winter8000m » Fri Oct 26, 2012 4:28 pm

Don't know if it's Zumie's Couloir....that mixed couloir can be seen from Upper Kieners as it faces North. And it starts farther climbers right. The next gully over left from Eighth Route connects with the eighth route higher up so sort of the same route. The next couloir over that your photo shows, I think is unknown. Or maybe has a name but definitely not a lot recorded about it. My thoughts..... Good question.
http://www.daring8000dreams.wordpress.com/

Life is too short to waste away

"I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me." (Philippians 4:13)
"Trust in the LORD with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge him, and he will make your paths straight" (Proverbs 3:5-6)
User avatar
lavicats
Posts: 20
Joined: 8/30/2011
14er Checklist (56)
14ers in Winter (2)
13er Checklist (117)

Re: Route Question for Longs Aficionados

Postby lavicats » Sat Oct 27, 2012 7:19 pm

This couloir is unnamed in Nesbit's Longs Peak, 11th ed. by Stan Adamson. Nesbit has labeled Zumies Couloir right or north of Zumies Buttress, starting at the Broadway/Lambs Slide juncture. Nesbit shows the Eighth Route starts above the finish to Alexanders Chimney/Stettners Ledges. Go for it and you may have naming rights!!

Return to “14ers”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests