Advice on American Basin requested

[Blaske]

Ok, my original plan has included snow climbs of Handies (up AM. Basin and up SW ridge of Handies) and one or more of the north couloirs on American Peak. I scheduled my trip for early next week (memorial week) well in advance based on many past reports which have indicated generally low avy conditions at that time of year for those climbs, and the climbs still having plenty of snow. Because of work schedule my timing for trip is locked in at this point. Clearly, based on threads on this website and reading the regular updates by CAIC this is not a "normal" year and pretty much everywhere avy conditions are much higher than normal for this point in the season. This may be an impossible question, although I'm hoping for a bit of feedback from climbers familiar with Handies and the Am. Peak couloirs on avy risks. Extended forecast looks more stable, warmer for much of the next several days. Assuming nights stay cold enough to minimize wet slides early in the morning is it insane/suicidal for us (there will be two of us) to hike around the Basin early in the day ???? Attempt a snow climb of Handies/couloirs???? Of important note is that we have shovels and probes, but no beacons. So, anyone with some good honest feedback let me know. I'd love to do the climbs, but I don't have a deathwish either.

[Kiefer]

If you don't have beacons, shovels and probes are pretty much useless. Well, shovels would be handy to dig a pit. Then again, if you don't honestly know how to read snow layers, the shovel is just dead weight.

Lower AM Basin is fairly wide. You'll have avy concern off Handies NW Face but it's easily avoidable by staying right. Dig a pit before you head up Handies SW Face. Go up one at a time if the slope is suspect to 'safe' areas. With state snowpack being as squirrly and 'swiss-cheesed' as it is, descend your tracks.

The couloirs on American Peak are going to be hit and miss. I have a page on Summitpost I made for Victory Couloir...take a look. The easiest is Patriot...I believe. The summit of American Peak does cornice. So be careful.
I'm considering heading down there myself next Sunday.

[Blaske]

Kiefer, thanks for the feedback, what you stated is about what I expected to hear. Regardless whether we go for a climb or not we still want to check out the basin. You noted that the basin is pretty wide, and if skirted right, is safe. I guess we'll see when we get there, but also wondering if traveling up and to Sloan lake would be a safe zone. We were wanting to set up camp somewhere in the basin one night for an alpine camp experience (not as high as Sloan Lake), but don't really want to get buried in our tent. Thanks in advance for any further feedback.

[Rcizzle]

I was also curious about the snow climb route for Handies as described on the route information. Does it have a lot of avy danger?

[Kiefer]

From Sloan Lake, Handies is very apparent as is your route. Dig your pit at the bottom of the slope (southwest aspect). I personally would keep to the far right (ascending) until you can assess the snowpack. It's a large slope.

When conditions are good, Handies' northwest face would be a killer snow climb! I remember glissading the entire thing almost directly back to the car years ago with the Jamies. It rivaled the Cristo (quandary) in my opinion. It would be an absolute nightmare if conditions are bad.