Kit Carson

[njlinderer]

Any current beta on Kit Carson snow conditions? Thanks.

[tmathews]

Unless you plan on heading up Outward Bound Couloir, it wouldn't be advisable to take the standard route for KC for awhile. The Avenue was extremely snow-loaded two weekends ago and probably received anywhere from 12-24" of new snow in the last couple of days.

Kit Carson Avenue from near the summit of Crestone Peak.

kitcarsonavenue01.jpg (328.73 KiB) Viewed 1199 times

[Theodore]

OB would be a nice climb...

Terry, since you seem to be a great source of 'boots on the ground' info, do you have any suggestions for us? We're ideally looking for a good couloir climb on a 14er. We're planning on heading out the weekend of the 20th.

Thanks!

Ted

[tmathews]

What's your and your partner(s)'s experience like? I actually don't have that much experience, so I wouldn't feel comfortable in making recommendations. As you know, there are A LOT of knowledgeable folks here. Perhaps one of them can chime-in on a good couloir climb for your experience level.

[Theodore]

Me = some 14ers, a steep-ish couloir on Sherman a few years ago, Ellingwood Arete on the Needle, few winter ascents on Mt. Washington in NH. Heading to Hood in June.
Nick will have to chime in for himself wrt snow travel/steep experience. He's heading to Shuksan this summer as well.

Ideally we're looking to get a 14er summit (or two), and get it via a fun couloir climb. An overnight is fine, but our sched is limited to the weekend of the 20th. We'd both like to get some more experience on steeper snow for our upcoming climbs in the cascades, but not steep enough for pro/ropes. Crampon and ice axe work is fine, we're both good with that. A narrow couloir is preferable to a wide open one.

Our original plan was Lost Rat, but with all the snow and the ginormous cornice, I'm thinking no.

Other ideas are as follows. Scattered over the state to avoid the same weather/snow conditions.
Kirk or OB on Kit.
Red Couloir on Crestone
North Face Couloir on Castle
Angel on Shivano
(and if none of that goes and pikes is all we can do) Crags on Pikes.

[tmathews]

Other ideas are as follows. Scattered over the state to avoid the same weather/snow conditions.
Kirk or OB on Kit.
Red Couloir on Crestone
North Face Couloir on Castle
Angel on Shivano
(and if none of that goes and pikes is all we can do) Crags on Pikes.

Well, here's what I have knowledge of, at least.

Kirk or OB would be "in" by that time, I'm thinking. The Sangres, with their recent round of snow, could be prime for snow ascents by then. I climbed Kirk a few weeks ago with a summit of Challenger. The Red Gully on Crestone Peak was a lot of fun. If it wasn't for that cornice in the notch at the time, we probably would have summited. The recent snow will have probably consolided by then. When we were up there, it was nice and firm due to its aspect, but not so firm that we could not self-belay with our axes. With all the snows that the Elks have received this season, you would likely be in for a LONG approach for Castle's north couloir. The Angel will probably still be "in", but it is pretty wide. Cristo Couloir on Quandary is another option. Depending on the condition of the cornice on Torreys, you might give Dead Dog a look. That was my first couloir. It's pretty steep and narrow -- especially near the top. There is also Emperor and Tuning Fork on the other side of Torreys. I believe Bill Middlebrook has route descriptions for both of those on the site as well. Missouri's north couloirs will probably be in a lot better shape than they were in last weekend.

That's about all I can give ya, unfortunately. Hope that provides some options!

[Theodore]

I appreciate the info! I've looked at the TR's for the routes on Torry's. For my own selfish reasons (peak bagging), I'd prefer other summits than G/T and Quandry, but a weekend attacking the 2 couloirs on Q seems kinda fun and doesn't leave many routes left on that mountain for me. :D

When you did Challenger did you camp, or just push in one day?

[tmathews]

When you did Challenger did you camp, or just push in one day?

Day trip. I think it ended up being 14 hours. Not as bad as the 17 hours for Crestone Peak or the 19h40m for Little Bear back in early March.

[jam6880]

Theodore you should go up Dead dog/missouri couloirs for your first ones. Then OB on kit or north face on castle as your second and maybe you should ask if anyone esle wants to go up those on this site too for more exp.