Too early for Democrat's North Couloir or Quandary's Cristo?

[Tobias]

For spring break my girlfriend of three years and I will be headed to the the Mosquito Range and possibly Redstone for some ice/mixed climbing, and then back to Breck for a couple days of surprise skiing and a warm hotel room. I intend this to be a proposal trip. :D The itenerary will be entirely dependant upon the ice and snow conditions -if conditions are poor we move onto plan B, C or D. I don't think we'll make it as far as Ouray. We'll be climbing/camping at the Lincoln Icefalls for 2-3 days starting March15th, and then Redstone once we're looking for something new. I would, however, like to get in a nice winter 14er summit or two. We both did the Decalibron last June and really enjoyed it. Last April we took the standard East ridge route up Quandary. I've climbed 14 and she's climbed 7 fourteeners. All of them except Quandary were in the Summer/Fall. This will be our second ice climbing trip and we sport climb at least twice a month when the weather is at least fair.

With moderate or less avy risk is it a conceivable idea to even make an attempt at the north couloir of Democrat or Cristo? We would be camping close and leaving fairly early (4am). I know there are many out there who have an unrealistic appraisal of the avy knowledge and experience, so I'll try to be objective. Here goes: My avalanche education is limited. I own three avalanche texts (The Avalanche Handbook, How to Stay Alive in Avalanche Terrain, and another who's name escapes me) that I have read cover-to-cover. The trip to Quandary last April allowed me to do some testing (digging pits, Rutschblock and Tap/Compression tests). I have also listened to online lectures covering avalanche risk evaluation and tests.

I guess what I'm looking for is something a bit more dramatic than the slog up the east ridge, then summit, and proposal. My primary objective is for both of us to stay alive and without injury. Understanding that my avalanche risk evaluation experience is limited I am coming to you guys/gals for some direction as moving the trip to, say, May when I know the conditions of Cristo are good is not an option due to school. We do have all the necessary gear including beacons (that we've practiced with), probes and shovels. Any friendly advice or other summit ideas? I'm looking for something in the Sawatch, Mosquito, or Front ranges. Democrat and Quandary just happened to be in a very convenient proximity to the ice climbing on Lincoln.

I'd also like to thank everyone who contributes to this site. I have been a silent reader for years and have learned many good things from you all. :D

[Jesse Peterson]

It totally depends on the weather leading up to your planned climb date. Mid-March is pretty early in the season for a couloir climb, especially a north facing one. The snowpack is transitioning to a spring pack but it is certainly not there yet, and likely won't be a week or two from now. If we had 10 days straight of solid melt-freeze cycles, then I would say the Cristo, which faces south, is a maybe at best. But I generally don't touch it until April. My assessment is conservative, but bear in mind that the Cristo couloir also tends to get cross-loaded by storms out of the west or northwest, and the weather for the next week looks pretty unsettled.

If you're not 100% certain of safe avy conditions, I would stick with ridge routes. Tenmile Peak, near Frisco, has a sweet east ridge you could do from the Miner's Creek TH. Another fun one would be the W. Ridge of Drift Peak from Mayflower Gulch, possibly even traverse the (marginally) technical ridge over to Mt. Fletcher (9 feet shy of a 14er).

Good luck with your trip/proposal!

[SteveBonowski]

Congratulations on your proposal decision and best of luck. I'd avoid the Democrat north couloir as the route isn't officially open for public access. On the outside chance something bad happened, would be embarrassing to get hauled off a closed route. Jesse has, I think, good ideas about ridge routes.

[d_baker]

We'll be climbing/camping at the Lincoln Icefalls for 2-3 days starting March15th

Any friendly advice or other summit ideas? I'm looking for something in the Sawatch, Mosquito, or Front ranges. Democrat and Quandary just happened to be in a very convenient proximity to the ice climbing on Lincoln.

You could consider climbing the ice at Lincoln and continuing on to the summit of Lincoln. Here's a report I wrote on that very idea:
http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.ph ... m=tripuser" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for other routes, I would watch the weather patterns leading into your trip and decide what would be safest for you, and with that in mind, choose a route/mountain that appeals to you.

Good luck, on both the climb and popping the question!

[bckcntryskr]

"my" experience over the last 15 years is that March is still a little early for the big lines (I have skied both) you mention. The recommendations for some gentler slopes may be prudent. That said if the avy rose bud and your experience gives you the comfort (green light), then enjoy because they are both great lines. Best wishes on the union.