Order to Climb all 14ers in a Summer??

[Dij40228]

Just a question, did anyone run into a mountain that was unusually hard that you realized you needed to prepare more for? We have read Rouch's book and seen other resources and some say, for example, that the ridge line on Capitol is not so bad while others recommend bringing a rope and that it is the most technical part of all the 14ers. Since most of my mountain experience is in the front range and the San Juans I don't know much about the other mountains yet.
Thanks again for everyone's insight and resources. We hope to keep everyone updated and if anyone wants to join us on a hike or two we will post when/where we will be on the forum.

[Yikes]

My opinion is that if you are going to crank through the 14ers at a rapid pace, you should comfortable enough with exposure as to not need a rope. If you need a rope for Capitol, I don't think you are ready for Capitol. [Clarification: A rope on Capitol would be very useful in winter ascents or when weather conditions warrant].

the only discussion of rope use should be North Maroon to South Maroon traverse (but I would probably go S to N which does not require ropework, only nerve)

just an opinion

[climbing_rob]

Just a question, did anyone run into a mountain that was unusually hard that you realized you needed to prepare more for? We have read Rouch's book and seen other resources and some say, for example, that the ridge line on Capitol is not so bad while others recommend bringing a rope and that it is the most technical part of all the 14ers. Since most of my mountain experience is in the front range and the San Juans I don't know much about the other mountains yet.

I've climbed Little Bear 4 times, and carried a rope each time, used it twice. So Yikes, was I not ready for Little Bear? In my insolence, I think I was, and I was glad I had it to navigate the icy rock in late May and June.

Do you NEED a rope on any 14ers? No, not usually. Is it nice to have just in case conditions warrant? Yes, on a few of them. (Little Bear, Sunlight (I protected my GF over The Gap), N. Maroon (not S. Maroon, unless you're doing the traverse), Mt. Wilson. I can't see any use on Capitol, except perhaps the K2 crux, so OK, Capitol. Get yourself a little itty-bitty, 2.5 pound total (30 meter rope, Alp-95 harness, a sling and a couple lockers) setup and learn how to use it and you can safely go a whole bunch more places in Colorado and in a whole bunch more conditions. But the key is: learn how to use these little protection setups; don't just buy a lightweight rope and harness and expect it to help if you don't know what you're doing.

[crossfitter]

Just a question, did anyone run into a mountain that was unusually hard that you realized you needed to prepare more for? We have read Rouch's book and seen other resources and some say, for example, that the ridge line on Capitol is not so bad while others recommend bringing a rope and that it is the most technical part of all the 14ers. Since most of my mountain experience is in the front range and the San Juans I don't know much about the other mountains yet.
Thanks again for everyone's insight and resources. We hope to keep everyone updated and if anyone wants to join us on a hike or two we will post when/where we will be on the forum.

In my [much less inexperienced than others here] opinion, the best way to get comfortable with exposure and class 3/4 routes is to do them. Once you are comfortable on class 2 routes in terms of your gear selection, weather senses, reaction to altitude, etc don't be afraid to try your hand at some non-committing class 3 routes. If you go out of your way to explore non-standard routes you can climb more than half of the 14ers from class 3 or 4 routes. Doing a bunch of those first will make Capitol relatively routine.

[Yikes]

Clarification of my opinion

If you want to use rope to protect yourself in a dangerous situation, then you should consider using one. I did not find the Capitol traverse to be dangerous in good weather conditions. I would hope that someone who wants to do all 14ers in a summer would be confident enough in the mountains to not be intimidated by the Capitol traverse.

If I was good enough to attempt Capitol in winter, I would definitely use a rope.
I would use a rope on Little Bear in icy conditions.
I would not use a rope on S to N Maroon, since I believe the increased danger from rockfall would outweigh any psychological help the rope provides

[climbing_rob]

I would not use a rope on S to N Maroon, since I believe the increased danger from rockfall would outweigh any psychological help the rope provides

I would and have, but perhaps you and I have taken different routes in the crux area. Staying right on the ridge, the two crux areas have no significant rockfall danger, they have been heavily used and are scrubbed quite clean. The one time I did S->N, we climbed the 1st crux free (the southern one), but the next (northern) crux we protected with a quick belay, very comforting for most members of our party, including myself. Going N->S (which I've done 3 times), both of these are quickly and easily rapped, plenty of slingage in place. Again, no rockfall danger in these two spots. PLENTY of rockfall danger all along the traverse, including the crux-bypass that is popular going S-->N, from everything I hear. So in essence, I agree, going S->N and using the crux-bypass (apparently very popular), a rope would probably do more harm than good.

But then again some folks get a little wigged down-climbing the N. Maroon chimney-crux, not having up-climbed it, like if they did the traverse. We used our little 30M there too as a quick hand line. Taller folks (I'm 6-1) can easily stem down this crux. My GF, a competent climber, is only 5-4 and had a hard time with this short move. Plus this chimney many times has ice on the ledges, making a short little rope nice and handy.

So overall, I would say it ain't a bad idea to carry a short rope on the bells. Sure, 90% of the folks haven't, but I like the flexibility this 2.5 pounds affords. Y-knot?

[Dij40228]

Thanks. Im sure that I don't need a rope though if people found one useful I just wanted to be sure that I brought one. There are several mountains that I haven't climbed yet so im trying to get a feel for some of the harder spots. When we have more questions we will let you know!!
Please feel free to continue to post ideas about any of the mountains.
Your support is awesome! Thank you!

[Dij40228]

OK. So does anyone know much about the access to San Luis Peak? We will (hopefully) be in Lake City and we wanted to access it from there, then after climbing it go North to Gunnison. It seemed like there were seasonal roads that allowed cars to pass that way but I have seen only a little information regarding this. Any insight would be of great help.
Thanks!!

[crossfitter]

OK. So does anyone know much about the access to San Luis Peak? We will (hopefully) be in Lake City and we wanted to access it from there, then after climbing it go North to Gunnison. It seemed like there were seasonal roads that allowed cars to pass that way but I have seen only a little information regarding this. Any insight would be of great help.
Thanks!!

You can access it from either side. Roach has pretty decent directions in the book, but I felt that it was fairly well marked. I approached San Luis from Lake city and left towards Salida, and the roads felt about the same either way. If I recall correctly the Lake city side gets narrow in a few spots, but the road is in very good condition. Easily passable with 2WD in good conditions, the only tricky spot was actually the turn into the parking lot which was heavily rutted.

I think your best bet will be to backtrack to Lake City and take 149 north. There might be some mountain passes, but I'd be willing to bet anything that it would turn into a 4wd epic and take much, much longer than the highway.

[petrofinder]

Sorry to bring this old thread up but I have the summer off to let my brain rest from work so I am thinking of what else a guy could do that can't sit still. I was thinking of doing a fundraiser for World Vision. My company wants to be a lead sponsor, kind of a marketing event for them. Have any of you done anything similar? I am not looking to break any speed records just get'm done. Thoughts? Advice?

[dmccool]

talk to crossfitter. I think he did it last summer

[peter303]

Would June snow be a factor? I've encountered some significant June snow in some years.
I have never climbed a San Juan before July. I dont know it they become snow free sooner than more northerly peaks.