Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

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dsunwall
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by dsunwall »

Climbing every gendarme seen in that photo I would describe as impossible, kind of throws out the whole "true crest of the ridge" requirement I suppose. Ridge traverses will always remain an unspecified (grey) accomplishment. I'm sure it was a great adventure, looking forward to the full report. Some of us talked about attempting this years ago but I finally gave up considering it. I'm glad someone will finally give us a detailed report.
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sgladbach
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by sgladbach »

Mike, Noah, Kiefer, thanks so much for the parnership! :-D :-D :-D
Kiefer wrote:We had to stop due to several factors working against us.
Besides the "Land of Scary Gendarmes", Steve was pooped. Once my blood sugar dropped, I couldn't get my energy back and the guys kindly spent alot of time waiting for me. Though far too much rope-work lay ahead to finish the technical portions before dark, the rest of the team, at least in part, opted to descend with me to make certain I got down safely. Had it been reversed, I'd have left them for the buzzards.
Presto wrote: I understand bypassing an obstacle "here and there", but c'mon now ... :-s
I usually claim more than 10 "traverses" of the Crestones. Though on different days I followed different routes, I can't claim to have stuck to the "knifiest" (cool word, eh?) portion of the ridge each time. Truth be told, I haven't followed the "knifiest" portion of the El Diente/Wilson or Maroon Bells ridges either.

This, I can say pretty confidently. I think we stayed as close to the sharpest point of the ridge as anyone else whose account I've read. I KNOW, without a doubt, that the ridge so far has been the hardest and, by several magnitudes, the most dangerous thing I've attempted in 25 years of climbing. I truly believe the Crestone Traverse blinfolded (with a partner) would be easier. If the Capitol's Knife-edge seemed hard, this traverse contains several sections that are 10% as wide and 10 times longer. The loose rock on Little Bear above the hour glass or Pramid's West Face or anywhere on any 14er route I've climbed are concrete by comparison. On the other hand, hanging by fingertip over some of those knife edges was pretty damn cool.

I've done each of these moves and negotiated this kind of rock several times on the 13ers. However, that was maybe for 100 yards or 20 minutes before enjoing an easier section (even if more difficult portions were returning.) This is hour upon hour of sustained 100% adrenaline production and singularly focused attention.

I'm using the trash can in lieu of doing laundry. I don't think those stains are ever coming out anyway.

I really hope to finish the final difficulties (with the same level of purity as those who went before) this year. I'm looking forward to the final pitches which have been called "good rock."
Last edited by sgladbach on Mon Sep 13, 2010 2:57 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Zambo
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by Zambo »

congratulations guys in creating the most anticipation before a TR ever!! when is that thing comin? can't wait...
"Human beings climb at their peril. Some might think that by climbing a great mountain they have somehow conquered it, but we can be only visitors here."
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Sugar Madison
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by Sugar Madison »

My god that ridge looks utterly disgusting and terrifying. Nice work up there!
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Presto
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by Presto »

by sgladbach » Mon Sep 13, 2010 2:46 pm
Presto wrote:
I understand bypassing an obstacle "here and there", but c'mon now ...
I usually claim more than 10 "traverses" of the Crestones. Though on different days I followed different routes, I can't claim to have stuck to the "knifiest" (cool word, eh?) portion of the ridge each time. Truth be told, I haven't followed the "knifiest" portion of the El Diente/Wilson or Maroon Bells ridges either.

This, I can say pretty confidently. I think we stayed as close to the sharpest point of the ridge as anyone else whose account I've read. I KNOW, without a doubt, that the ridge so far has been the hardest and, by several magnitudes, the most dangerous thing I've attempted in 25 years of climbing. I'd truly believe the Crestone Traverse blinfolded (with a partner) would be easier. If the Capitol's Knife-edge seemed hard, this traverse contains long sections that are 10% as wide. The loose rock on Little Bear above the hour glass or Pramid's West Face are concrete by comparison. On the other hand, hanging by fingertip over some of those knike edges was pretty damn cool.

I'm using the trash can in lieu of doing laundry . I don't think those stains are ever coming out anyway.

I really hope to finish the final difficulties (with the same level of purity as those who went before) this year. I'm looking forward to the final pitches which have been called "good rock."
:lol: Love "knifiest"! 8) Really appreciate the "don't think those stains are ever coming out anyway" comments (I'm so "there" it's not even funny 8-[ ).

Regarding the sanctity of staying high on traverses, I totally agree ... I mean, in a perfect world, we'd all be busting 5.??+ moves and never touching our feet on flat ground. Heck, I don't even do technical climbing, but do TRY as much as possible when doing a traverse to stay as high as I can. :wink: That said, it's just simply not possible all the time. Weather, one's ability, rock conditions, daylight, etc. play so much into goals like that.

Obviously with something as complicated as this traverse, comments such as mine above must be taken with a grain of salt, tongue in cheek ... sh*t, make that the whole jaw in cheek if that's even possible. :-#

I just thought since Kiefer stuck his *** out there with the comment that I'd latch on (like a mad dog on a bone). :shock: That's certainly why I've never commented on the topic before as it really is a personal call. I do look forward to you guys getting this tackled at some point in the future. Happy trails ... errr Happy Ridges! :D
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James Scott
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by James Scott »

After completing the Bells traverse, a buddy of mine suggested that I try that Capitol> Snowmass traverse next. I'm going to go kick the crap out of him. Amazing work guys. Can't decide which I'd rather have been around- this climb or Doggler's finisher celebration. Think I'd choose the keg over that ridge.
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Perea
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by Perea »

I think you guys are way too talented to be risking that on a crumbling pile of rocks. You all need to be using that talent to conquer more significant mountains with more solid rock or snow. I want to see Steve get back and get Cho Oyo off his back! Noah Everest awaits don't play russian rullet with these piles of crumbly rock. Kiefer never met you but I know you are 1 hell of a climber.

Just my 2 cents.

Paul
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oldschool
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by oldschool »

The Cap to Snowmass traverse, at least for me, was the culmination of a dream....a site I saw when on top of Pyramid last year. Although dangerous, risky, and utterly stimulating beyond words, it was a day well spent with talented people in the mountains I love. To anyone that may considering doing this, bring a strong attitude, strong partners, and desire beyond anything you may have done before. I appreciate all the kind words of appreciation and support. Thank you all! I will go back and finish and I will do it in a one-day push next year!
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by Winter8000m »

The "Gendarmes from Hell" have never been climbed directly. In fact there is only one known ascent from Capitol to Snowmass before our attempt and that was Matt who wrote the description on MP. I talked to him much about this traverse. I thought he was exagerating a tad bit about the ridge. In all actuallity, it was even worse then what is described.

It's kind of sad. When I got home Sunday I kept watching where I would put my feet because I was so used to being 100% focused for 8 hours. Funny thing is, Steve would keep carrying on a conversation even when he was knocking gigantic rocks down. The constant smell of smoke was around for the whole traverse. Granite colliding on granite made a unique smell.

As far as sticking to the ridge the whole time, this is my opinion. I strongly believe that will never ever happen. I don't care if your Chris Sharma or whoever. It's not possible. It's suicidal.

As far as the traverse, there is quite a bit less then a handful of people that have done it. I've done my research in the AAJ journals. It's hard to tell though but I've only seen 2-3 reports on it besides the MP one. And one of those was ended in disaster. Ill have to go back and get an exact count and see.
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by cheeseburglar »

Hell of a try.
Sounds like a good day out.
Keifer- send me a message if you need something to do the weekend of Sept 25-26.
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by MountainHiker »

Wow =D>
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse

Post by kimo »

In a place where most of the plums have been picked it's great to see new fruit being sown. Sorry it turned rotten. Great attempt gents and I'm glad all made it down safe.
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