Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
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Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
So, after over a year of planning and waiting, Mike (Oldschool), Noah (winter8000m), Steve Gladbach and myself finally got around in making this thing happen.
We left the summit of Capitol at 9:30am and finally bailed off the ridge around 5:15pm near North Snowmass at a section that stopped all of us dead in our tracks...a small section I call "the land of scary gendarmes'.
We came up roughly .2-.3 miles and 600ft. shy of our goal. We had to stop due to several factors working against us.
But, we'll be back next year to finish the 5 pitch 5.6 climb of North Snowmass and Snowmass.
The girlfriends (Stephanie & Brenda) were absolutely stellar and beyond necessary. They picked the smelly four of us up at the Lake Geneva TH in Lead King.
I'll go on record as saying...this ridge is just plain dangerous. I've never in all my forays into the San Juans or Elks have seen such massive quantities or size of loose rock.
The average size of stuff we knocked loose was prolly about the size of a microwave. The ridge is CONSISTENT in its' difficulties and was impossible to stay on the ridge crest.
I'll never go back and repeat it.
Anyway, here's a few pictures and a report will follow soon.
Noah, Steve, Mike....Sh*t...what a day.
Noah roughly half way across. Spires & Gendarmes on the ridge crest Steve rapelling the 5.7 climb off Capitol
We left the summit of Capitol at 9:30am and finally bailed off the ridge around 5:15pm near North Snowmass at a section that stopped all of us dead in our tracks...a small section I call "the land of scary gendarmes'.
We came up roughly .2-.3 miles and 600ft. shy of our goal. We had to stop due to several factors working against us.
But, we'll be back next year to finish the 5 pitch 5.6 climb of North Snowmass and Snowmass.
The girlfriends (Stephanie & Brenda) were absolutely stellar and beyond necessary. They picked the smelly four of us up at the Lake Geneva TH in Lead King.
I'll go on record as saying...this ridge is just plain dangerous. I've never in all my forays into the San Juans or Elks have seen such massive quantities or size of loose rock.
The average size of stuff we knocked loose was prolly about the size of a microwave. The ridge is CONSISTENT in its' difficulties and was impossible to stay on the ridge crest.
I'll never go back and repeat it.
Anyway, here's a few pictures and a report will follow soon.
Noah, Steve, Mike....Sh*t...what a day.
Noah roughly half way across. Spires & Gendarmes on the ridge crest Steve rapelling the 5.7 climb off Capitol
Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
And one more...
1st tower along 1 of 4 knife sections. Just after leaving the rapel.
1st tower along 1 of 4 knife sections. Just after leaving the rapel.
- JohnWilliams
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Well done fellas!
I know how much you were looking forward to this Kiefer! I can't wait to see and read more about it.
Mad props you guys!
I know how much you were looking forward to this Kiefer! I can't wait to see and read more about it.
Mad props you guys!
-I tend to be a Longs Peak nerd. If you have questions about the Longs Peak Massif please, feel free to ask.
But at times I wondered if I had not come a long way only to find that what I really sought was something I had left behind-Tom Hornbein
And this time you gave me a mountain. A mountain I may never climb-Marty Robbins
But at times I wondered if I had not come a long way only to find that what I really sought was something I had left behind-Tom Hornbein
And this time you gave me a mountain. A mountain I may never climb-Marty Robbins
Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Awesome and terrifying. I've occasionally wanted to do this, but now not so much. Thanks for the warnings!
"There are no hard 14ers, but some are easier than others." - Scott P
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- Carl
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Nice! I'd actually been thinking about this the last few days as the next big thing. Was wondering if you were going for it this season. Congrats to all. Looking forward to the tr.
Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Holy crap! Reading that just gives me chills. I also can't wait for the TR. Nice job to all!Kiefer wrote:...and finally bailed off the ridge around 5:15pm near North Snowmass at a section that stopped all of us dead in our tracks...a small section I call "the land of scary gendarmes'.
Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Those pictures are sick! Looks like an accident waiting to happen. And for Kiefer and Noah to say what you are about this....yikes! Glad you all 4 got off that thing safely!
Are you about ready to go tackle the standard routes of Elbert, Bierstadt or Quandary???
Are you about ready to go tackle the standard routes of Elbert, Bierstadt or Quandary???
Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Awesome photos. Sounds nasty.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
- Johnson
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Dude.
In his hand are the depths of the earth; the heights of the mountains are his also. - Psalm 95:4
"I would be doing myself a disservice and every member of this band if I didn't perform the hell out of this." - Gene
"I would be doing myself a disservice and every member of this band if I didn't perform the hell out of this." - Gene
- Brian C
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Nice work gents! Glad you all made it safely. Congrats big time!
- Ridge runner
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Kiefer wrote:So, after over a year of planning and waiting, Mike (Oldschool), Noah (winter8000m), Steve Gladbach and myself finally got around in making this thing happen.
... And I can now finally sleep at night!
Congrats guys! I got some pretty good pictures of you all along the ridge (I just sent them to Kiefer so he can forward them to you).
I'm very relieved you all made it down safely!
- Winter8000m
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Re: Capitol-Snowmass Traverse
Would love to put some photo's on here! But I can't figure out how to post them on a forum. I got some really good ones. Basically a photo of every foot of the ridge. There are not any out there shot from this ridge. Even video's of the microwave sized rocks flying down. Couldn't capture the rock avalanche on film though that took me for a few feet of sliding
In all seriousness, this route is no Grade IV. We couldn't even do this in two days. I would say Grade V or more. As far as the difficulty. Constant 4rth - 5.5, horrible choss for more then 2.5 miles, without a rope.
This ridge is "Satan's Ridge" and is a very serious objective. Getting weather on this ridge would sure ruin your day big time if not your life.....
Way to go guys! I'm still thinking I'm walking on either a loose knife edge or on top of sliding gigantic rocks
In all seriousness, this route is no Grade IV. We couldn't even do this in two days. I would say Grade V or more. As far as the difficulty. Constant 4rth - 5.5, horrible choss for more then 2.5 miles, without a rope.
This ridge is "Satan's Ridge" and is a very serious objective. Getting weather on this ridge would sure ruin your day big time if not your life.....
Way to go guys! I'm still thinking I'm walking on either a loose knife edge or on top of sliding gigantic rocks
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"I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me." (Philippians 4:13)
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Life is too short to waste away
"I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me." (Philippians 4:13)
"Trust in the LORD with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding; in all your ways acknowledge him, and he will make your paths straight" (Proverbs 3:5-6)