rob runkle wrote:...Everyone else on the mountain is also on their last threads of life. Why should they have to give away their life breaths to help this person. Amazing that they could, and it lifts my heart. But, it should NOT be assumed, or expect...
While some of your subsequent post reveal more, I still have to disagree with your general premise.
While that philosophy may be easy to rationalize in the short term (getting off the mountain), take a minute and think about it over the longer term.
After the incident is over, and life gets back to normal, how will you feel? Will you be ok with the fact that you (if you were close) passed someone by who was â€˜in bad shapeâ€™, and didn't do anything to help. It's one thing to have to live with the fact that a bad event happened on your climb, but I'd think that living with the regret of not trying to help would be much worse.
I understand the nature of the environment and the routes on Everest, and I'm not advocating to attempt a rescue when it WILL cost other lives, but I find the thought of leaving someone in that condition or passing by (without an attempt), reprehensible.
You may only be able to move the victim a portion of the way/to a safer location (and radio in) or you may only be able to stabilize him/her, but to do NOTHING???...
I donâ€™t know if other passed her by (while this has happened to others who have died on Everest), but it does appear that she was left. For dead?, probably not. But if you get left (at all) in that condition, in that environment, it may well be a death sentence.
See the following article for more info on the rescue:http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?news=16010
While the ethics of these situations are good to talk about, it indicates a larger problem that is occurring on many levels in mountaineering. That problem is a lack of preparation, not just in a gear sense or a physical sense, but in a mental sense also.
I feel fortunate that, as a Boy Scout, I had the motto â€˜Be Preparedâ€™ drilled into me for nearly a decade. Personally, I think that an important part of that motto is being mentally prepared, and part of that mental preparation is understanding the ethics involved in your activities and accepting the inherent responsibilities.
Hereâ€™s what some groups have to say about it:
Boy Scouts / Oath â€“ â€œâ€¦To help other people at all times;â€¦â€
AMGA / Code of Ethics â€“ â€œA Guide's prime concern is always the care and well being of his/her client.â€
National Park Service / â€œA Climbing Ethicâ€¦â€ â€“ â€œâ€¦Accept responsibility for yourself and others,â€¦â€
Kingâ€™s College Mountaineering Club / Code of Practice â€“ â€œIt is the responsibility of anybody participating in mountaineering activities to look after their own safety and the safety of those participating with them.â€
I donâ€™t see any ambiguity here, only excuses.