Yog wrote:Here is a good trip report on the Sunlight Spire climbed in 2009 by P Kelly.
"The toughest 14,000 foot summit in the 48 states ..."
OK, I didn't know that. Is this the general sentiment?
"...what I believe to be sandbagging of the route..."
Interesting, I've always heard 10a. He was thinking 10d. I can't imagine that thing being as hard as Quivering Quill (Turkey Rocks) - but I personally think the Quill is a huge sandbag at 10d. I see he also gave it four stars. Doug Winter demurs, feeling the route goes at 10a.
"The anchor currently [August 2009] consists of a 1960s vintage 1/4" cap/hex head bolt with poor hanger, an ancient 1 1/2 inch angle pin that can be lifted out of its placement by hand, and a green Lowe Tricam with a UV deteriorating sling..."
Last night I tossed and turned a bit before dozing off, thinking how I might be able to get this roped-solo this summer, if I can't find a partner. If it's really that hard, I think I want a partner and a liberal attitude toward aid.
Here's Doug Winter's shot from August 2009 on MP. Note the screamer on the FP.