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djkest wrote:I personally will not now nor ever go to Mexico, I don't want to support that corrupt regime in any way and I value my safety.

I felt safer much safer in Mexico City than I do in Detroit, and I'm from Michigan. I'm not going to stroll around Juarez, just like I wouldn't stroll around many places in the US.

djkest wrote:The big draw for most americans (non-climbers) is just the fact that it's cheap.

...culture...VERY friendly people...there are plenty of other reasons than being cheap. I loved visiting my sister when she lived outside Mexico City just because everyone was so nice and respectful in her town. Not just to me, but to eachother.

--Derek

Well my parents were funding the trip as a graduation gift, but then that border incident made them put the kabosh on it. So I thought, hey a guided trek (RMI) up Rainier would be way cool.

Haven't heard back. So it seems any trek is on my own VERY tight budget.
I'd love to return back to Chicago Basin, but want to do something to fulfill my mid-life crisis. (There I said it!)

Not that Chicago Basin wouldn't fit the bill, but.....

Gannett Peak anyone? Ideally I originally picked Ixta & Orizaba because I wanted to obliterate my altitude record plain and simple. I turn 40 in late July 2011 and I want to do something that feels like it's on a grand scale. On such a tight budget, with parents concerned about MX safety, RMI spots filling up quickly for Tahoma, that leaves 2 local spots: Chicago Basin or Gannett Peak. Need rope skills to contend with the bergshrund on that and double guns of bear spray and mosquito repellant.

My only issue with Gannett aside from getting mauled by a bear or a snow bridge collapsing on me is going unguided that out in the middle of nowhere. Perhaps I should just grow a pair, team up with some experienced people, do some snow climbs this spring, and borrow my friend's .45 and go for it. Thoughts now that this thread has digressed to being a domestic destination?

Tim

timf wrote:My only issue with Gannett aside from getting mauled by a bear or a snow bridge collapsing on me is going unguided that out in the middle of nowhere. Perhaps I should just grow a pair, team up with some experienced people, do some snow climbs this spring, and borrow my friend's .45 and go for it. Thoughts now that this thread has digressed to being a domestic destination?

Tim

My thought is that you should start a new thread on doing Gannett Peak. I've done the peaks you mentioned above... Izta had fantastic views, and it's a great way to break the 17K' barrier without dealing with ropes or crevasses; Orizaba was beautiful, you break 18K' *and* you get a country highpoint; Rainier (via Emmons Glacier) is a multi-day trek that will give you some real experience with camping on a glacier, and rope travel that includes plenty of crevasse and serac danger. I loved them all. But I'm *most* proud of Gannett Peak. It was by far a lot tougher than any of the others. We did not hire a guide, I just went with my buddy and we had an amazing time that I'll never forget. And BTW - grizzlies are extremely rare that far south... although there was one at our last camp.

There are plenty of other folks on this site who have done these peaks too, and who can give you some good advice.

susanjoypaul wrote:My thought is that you should start a new thread on doing Gannett Peak...... I loved them all. But I'm *most* proud of Gannett Peak. It was by far a lot tougher than any of the others. We did not hire a guide, I just went with my buddy and we had an amazing time that I'll never forget.

Even harder then Rainier? We need to talk then. OK I'll start a new thread after scouring the SP page.

Tim

timf wrote:Even harder then Rainier? We need to talk then. OK I'll start a new thread after scouring the SP page.

Okey dokey... for me, it was much harder than Rainier - although this of course will depend on your route on each and the current conditions: snow, stream levels, cold, heat, wind; avalanche, bergschrund and crevasse conditions, etc. The success rate on Rainier is about 50% - I can guarantee the success rate on Gannett is much lower.

Here are three good, unguided trip reports, from three different routes, that will give you some ideas for route selection. If you don't relish the idea of carrying a big pack, there are plenty of outfitters willing to carry your stuff in on horseback, for a fee.

Steve Gladbach's two-part TR, "Cooper's Traverse"
Cold Spring Route - 31 miles, 8,000'
Part 1: http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=6580
Part 2: http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=6582

Kevin Baker's one-part TR, "Intro to the Winds: 19 Hour Epic on Gannett"
Titcomb Basin from Pinedale - 40 miles, 10,200'
http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4738

Doug Hatfield's three-part TR, "Gannett Peak, The Trilogy"
Glacier Trail from Dubois - 50 miles, 10,750'
Intro & Episode I: A Brutal Beginning: http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4757
Episode II: The Coloradoans Climb Back: http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4781
Episode III: The Return of the Hikers: http://14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4805

None of these routes is easy, and they all present their own, unique challenges. But if you're looking to get away from it all - and really test yourself - for very little cash, Gannett is it.

While I have been trying to convince you for a month that Mexico is perfectly safe in that area, it isnt working

That being the case, if you are looking to stay in Colorado, perhaps a March/April ascent of the Blanca/Ellingwood/Little Bear combo on a day would make you feel like that. You wouldnt be breaking any altitude records of yours, but they would be 'safe'.

My great buddy has aspirations of taking on these three in a day and it is my goal to work my way there (yes, I am the same person that bitched about Quandary) to join him on his epic climb. I have to admit, this is a DAMN difficult aspiration, but would take care of a 20 mile hike, 7500', and something most would call much harder than Rainier.

B

somethingrandom wrote:While I have been trying to convince you for a month that Mexico is perfectly safe in that area, it isnt working

I know and actually it's not me that needs convincing, but the people funding the trip. They really want Ireland. My argument is, I'd love to, but I can do that when I'm 60 or older. I myself need my a$$ handed to me within the next year and do something extraordinary. That's really what I'm looking for. I may be willing in April to go up Ellingwood while you do LB and meet you on Blanca. Little Bear makes me uneasy for some reason and I think it's the loose rock.

Susan- Love the Trilogy and I read over every bit last night. The Wind River Range looks likes it's packed with "Oh my God views" from beginning to end and if the mosquitos won't kick your butt, the peak will. Loved that Tour de Gannett report as well.
I need to give some serious thought as to what I'll end up doing. Your comment having been most proud of Gannett when having done Ixta, Orizaba, and Rainier weighs very deeply on me. A first hand testimony by one that can compare them all side by side gives a great perspective. Nice writing by the way - desriptive, poetic, and informational.

Tim

Derek wrote:

djkest wrote:I personally will not now nor ever go to Mexico, I don't want to support that corrupt regime in any way and I value my safety.

I felt safer much safer in Mexico City than I do in Detroit, and I'm from Michigan. I'm not going to stroll around Juarez, just like I wouldn't stroll around many places in the US.

djkest wrote:The big draw for most americans (non-climbers) is just the fact that it's cheap.

...culture...VERY friendly people...there are plenty of other reasons than being cheap. I loved visiting my sister when she lived outside Mexico City just because everyone was so nice and respectful in her town. Not just to me, but to eachother.

--Derek

The Detroit comment often comes in my travels since I go there twice a year, every year, never have an issue (grew up in Flint area, Flint = Detroit without all the glamour). Strolled around there many times. Perhaps this is part of the reason I take comments about Mexico and Nepal as being "dangerous" with a grain of salt. It is not clear to me why I would punish the locals in Mexico by not giving them my travel business because the government is corrupt. If I did, where could I travel ? I was in Mexico in 2006, I hope to go back there someday as I was chased off of both Iztaccihuatl & Orizaba by storms. Next time I hope to have studied some Spanish before going. It would enhance the experience allot by being able to interact with the locals more. That said, the British Ilse's are on my bucket list, especially Scottish Highlands.