Mt Rainier WA 2008

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Mt Rainier WA 2008

Postby Glen » Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:04 am

I know it is a long time from now, but i am thinking of climbing Rainer for a second time in jun or july of 2008, if you are interested let me know. i also need to touch up on creves rescue and some basic skills so if you have the knowledge and would like to pass it on to some young guys just out of the marine corps let me know. or if you know anywhear i could learn these skills without paying over 1000 dolars for them that would be great.
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Postby jfox » Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:13 am

I too am wanting to climb Rainier. I was thinking 2007, but as it looks now, it will most likely be '08 before I can go.
Are you in CO now or still in CA? I will be doing a lot of winter mountaineering over the next two winters as well as summer climbs to prep. Crevasse rescue can be done w/o a crevasse, or so I've been told, and self arrest techniques can be learned at a lot of places here in CO.

I'm planning on doing the Fuhrer Finger route however.

Stay in touch and we'll see what happens.
Last edited by jfox on Tue Jan 30, 2007 12:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Dan the Mountain Man » Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:14 am

A buddy of mine and me will be doing Rainier this summer as well, most likely in August though, and not on the standard route.

I would be game for practicing glacier travel and crevass rescue some more though.

Hit me up if you want to do this.

Bis zur Grenze gefordet, koennen wir alle mehr, als wir wollen -Reinhold Messner

One does not climb to attain enlightenment, rather one climbs because he is enlightened- Zen Master Futomaki
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Postby cbauer10 » Wed Dec 13, 2006 3:22 pm

I would be interested. It is about time I start climbing outside of Colorado. Although there is plenty of great mountains around here. I would need to look into this first, you know the finances, but if you have any good suggestions, I would like to take a look. I might have a buddy that is interested as well.
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Beehive Campsite

Postby rtichota » Mon Jan 01, 2007 3:41 pm

Hey - this doesn't quite fit the topic of joining a team, but I was wondering if anyone has ever camped at the Beehive bivy. I'm planning a trip via Gib Ledges and wanted to get away from the hordes at Muir.
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Postby zacob » Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:42 am

I was looking at Rainer in 08 as well. Are you planning on getting a team together or are you going go with a guide service?
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Postby jimlup » Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:55 pm

I'm planning Rainer in summer of '08 as well. I am almost certainly taking the Alpine Ascents 6 day Denali prep course so I'll have just come off a formal course in crevass rescue, Avalance avoidance, prep and rescue, etc. I'd certainly consider Rainer with an experienced team instead of a guide service just because of the flexiblity it would give.

This of course all depends on how my summer 07 climbing here in Colorado goes and how my 07-08 fitness program ultimately turns out.
"Just because you have the gear does not mean that you are a Mountaineer!" My daughter's cynical comment about my hobby...
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Postby mainpeak » Tue Jan 02, 2007 4:25 pm

Hey Guys, Please count me in if anyone is looking to practice crevasse rescue starting 3rd weekend in January.

I just got a crevasse rescue book and am looking for traoining partners as well. I have most of the required gear (I don't have a dry rope though, just standard 50m and 60m ropes. Should be ok though ?) . I have some ideas of where we can practice fairly close by. If not there is always St Mary's Glacier as well, if we want to improvise. I'm also not adverse to hiking in to somewhere were there's a steep snow colour if anyone wants to mix in some climbing.

I am actually trying to lock in a Ranier trip for this year. My partner is on the east coast though and while he is quite experienced I need to get myself up to speed.
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Postby CC » Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:13 am

RMI - offers 1 day glacier skills and 1 day crevasse rescue skills training and/or review. I think its still about $150 each for 6 hour days. You practice your rigs on an incline, not in a crevasse.

If you know your C and Z systems or Pig-Rigs you'll be in good shape.

Know the waypoints on the route from Paradise to Muir snowfield/camp. They are available on NPS website. The marine layer moves quickly from Puget Sound and you get low or no vis at 10,000 and lower. The fall line at Muir takes you right into the snowfield and crevasses...don't glissade anything.

Good Luck !!!
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Postby Darryl Dunlap » Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:28 am

Several of us from the San Juan Group-CMC and from a college outdoor program are going up the Emmons Glacier during Sept. 6-8 time frame. Anybody else interested in this time frame? Depending on how many we end up with, we should have room on a rope team for a couple of more.
Anyone interested, pm me.
"A great loss of a wonderful person clouds us tonight, Rest In Peace David...."
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Postby Crass3000 » Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:21 pm

Definately have to be places in Colorado where you can practice cravasse rescue techniques with pulleys and pickets. The concept is really the same except that your not in a crevasse. Just get good at using ascenders, etc. to pull yourself out assuming that your team-mates have practiced self arrest so that you can stop the fall. Once the fall is stopped then practice the different pulley systems after you have secured pickets, etc to go through the motions of the rescue.

Look in Freedom in the Hills for techniques and pulley systems, etc. Just make sure you everybody has the techniques down without thinking twice about them as these techniques may surely have to be used on Rainier.

When we climbed Rainier there were teams that fell into crevasses. We were ahead of them but they had to rely on other teams to help them out. Granted they were the flannel shirt type crew and only had a headlamp for the first person on the rope team. They were not prepared.

If your properly prepared you should be able to go unguided at least on the standard route which allows you more flexibility. That way if your slower than RMI wants you to be then you still will be able to summit. Just start really early (like 11PM) if you think you won't be able to keep a rather swift pace. The only drawback to that is that some of the bridges that may have softened during the day may not have fully hardened by then. We did Rainier unguided.
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Postby bisleybum » Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:31 pm

I'm tentatively planning a July 2008 Rainier climb. Anybody know how far in advance I should book RMI's crevasse rescue and self arrest training courses? I was going to give them a call this summer after my CO visit. I may have two or three climbing buddies with me.
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and our breathing be as walking.

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