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Hotlum-Winton. We saw a total of 4 people on that route (while there were hundreds on the Avalanche Gully route). You meet up with the Avalanche route just below the summit block. Solid rock? It's a volcano (two steps up and three steps back if you're on the kitty litter). You don't get much solid rock on volcanoes. We did this climb as a 3-day trip (backpacked in one day and camped high, climbed and camped, then packed up and hiked out).

That was part of our "summer of volcanoes" trip. We also did Lassen and Hood, hiked and then camped overnight with the big trees in Redwood National Forest, soaked in some hot springs, hiked along the coast, visited some breweries ... that was a great trip.

I second Hotlum-Winton. It was great. We only saw one other group.

Avalanche Gully is the biggest cluster I've ever seen in my life.

skiwall wrote:Avalanche Gully is the biggest cluster I've ever seen in my life.

I guess it depends on when you're there. Avy Gulch was quite possibly the best day I've had in the mountains in my life! I can imagine on winter/spring weekends or any time during the summer it would turn into a cluster fast.

Hotlum-Bolam is one of my favs. Straight forward, beautiful, less crowded and a super simple snow climb. And by the way, there isn't a solid scrambling rock on that mountain. The Casaval Ridge on the other side of the mountain is also a great route, but it should be done with snow coverage. There won't be many folks on that route. It's probably the best pure mountaineering route on the mountain. The Hotlum direct is probably the hardest route, but the short class 5 section above the glacier is super sketchy. Sargent Ridge is also fun but it definitely needs snow as there is a lot of scree and loose rock, no fun dry. Snow should not be a problem this season though, they have been getting hammered.

Avy Gulch sucks. Don't sour your taste for a great mountain by climbing it. I have climbed it in January and ended the day nearly being killed by another group's inexperience. In summer, get in the line for a rock to hit you in the helmet.

RoanMtnMan wrote:Snow should not be a problem this season though, they have been getting hammered.

November/December yes. January however was a different story and I believe at the moment the mountain is below normal for snowpack at this point.

Shasta Locales wrote:

RoanMtnMan wrote:Snow should not be a problem this season though, they have been getting hammered.

November/December yes. January however was a different story and I believe at the moment the mountain is below normal for snowpack at this point.

Didn't you guys break the single storm snowfall world record earlier this winter with 18 feet in 3 days? So spoiled, most of Colorado won't get 18 feet this whole winter! Jealous.

RoanMtnMan wrote:

Shasta Locales wrote:

RoanMtnMan wrote:Snow should not be a problem this season though, they have been getting hammered.

November/December yes. January however was a different story and I believe at the moment the mountain is below normal for snowpack at this point.

Didn't you guys break the single storm snowfall world record earlier this winter with 18 feet in 3 days? So spoiled, most of Colorado won't get 18 feet this whole winter! Jealous.

Indeed. Hopefully both Colorado and Shasta receive an extra helping of snow this spring.


As for the original post - since you specify a summer climb and solitude, I'd have to agree with the Hotlum-Wintun ridge as your best option. Very scenic route and uncrowded. Should be good well into summer. It does get a little steep near the top only.

Casaval will be done by June and AG will be a bowling alley

I would also add another vote for the Hotlam Bolam ridge. I was there in early August this summer and the conditions were great. I would highly recommend it. We maybe saw 7 people the whole trip and half of them were on the summit.

The Porcella Burns book has a pretty good description of this route and there is a good map put out by Wilderness press with most of the routes labeled on it.

Allow yourself at least 2-3 days for any route as most of the approaches are longer and you will be gaining 7000-9000 feet of elevation.

What ever route you choose you will have a good trip. It is a beautiful mountain.

Happy trails,

kaiman