Page 1 of 2

Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:37 pm
by TerryLiv
I am planning a climb over Labor Day weekend. Any takers? Anyone done it? How is the top section compared to after the knife ridge of Capitol?

Thanks,

Terry

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:01 pm
by hansolo35
did Granite over Labor Day weekend 10 years ago. the pitch to the summit from the high col is pretty serious with big exposure (ie: you don't want to fall). Totally class 4 for a few hundred feet with I believe some low class 5 moves thrown in for spicyness. In my opinion Granite is a tougher climb than Capitol, with the crux worse than the knife-edge (although both have serious exposure). the moves to attain Granite's summit are tougher than the scoot across the knife. But I climbed Granite solo and considering my skills on rock aren't the best (I'm a solid 5.7 climber tops), you can do it. It's a spectacular peak in a remote wilderness.

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:37 pm
by Presto
I've often considered this route ... certainly less traffic than the standard route (doesn't use FTD plateau, the snow bridge or standard climbing route).

Route Description
http://www.summitpost.org/southwest-cou ... ute/160092" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Trip Reports
http://www.summitpost.org/granite-peak- ... oir/549417" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.summitpost.org/from-mt-to-tx ... -80/557311" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Re: Granite Peak Montana

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:10 pm
by CliminDave
Climbed Granite a few years back. It was a wonderful trip! The climb itself is a challenge with Class 4+ near the top. We used a rope but could have done it without as well. The scariest part for me was not on the climb but on the Froze-to-Death Plateau. We camped there 2 nights. The Mt goats have learned the 'salt in the urine' thing and will walk right up to a urinating human type. I had to zip up a couple of times for fear of being impaled! Anyway, it is a great climb that is now a cherished memory. Best of luck!

Re: Granite Peak Montana

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:26 pm
by TerryLiv
CliminDave wrote:Climbed Granite a few years back. It was a wonderful trip! The climb itself is a challenge with Class 4+ near the top. We used a rope but could have done it without as well. The scariest part for me was not on the climb but on the Froze-to-Death Plateau. We camped there 2 nights. The Mt goats have learned the 'salt in the urine' thing and will walk right up to a urinating human type. I had to zip up a couple of times for fear of being impaled! Anyway, it is a great climb that is now a cherished memory. Best of luck!
Reminds me of Chicago Basin. When we left camp there were 8 goats in camp checking out our urine. Closest one was about 20 feet away.

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 8:31 pm
by Scott P
Any takers
Hmmm, seriously tempting.

I was thinking of something closer, but I've always wanted to climb Granite.

If I did go, I'd be coming from Craig. I wonder if there would be somewhere we could meet and carpool from there?

Also, I know my son would want to go, but I assume that you may not want a younger climber to come along on this one?

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:16 pm
by pbakwin
My brother has done the standard & SW Couloir rtes & confirms that the SW Coul is easier. I did the standard rte & would say it is harder climbing than any standard rte on a Colo 14er - by a good bit. Class 5 for sure.

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:37 am
by Alan Ellis
Granite via the East Ridge/South Face is harder than Capitol. Here is my Granite Peak route page if you decide on the East Ridge/South Face: http://www.jackieandalan.com/graniteroute.html

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:40 am
by SarahT
The std route is definately harder than Capitol; most parties bring a rope. Sustained 4th class with a couple of low 5th class moves and significant routefinding. We had a group of 3 strong & experienced Colorado scramblers and one asked for the rope in two spots going up. We all did several rappels on the way down. I have some pictures of the scrambling that may help give you an idea of what to expect: http://www.13ergirl.com/granite/granite.html

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 8:47 am
by Alan Ellis
SarahT wrote:The std route is definately harder than Capitol; most parties bring a rope. Sustained 4th class with a couple of low 5th class moves and significant routefinding. We had a group of 3 strong & experienced Colorado scramblers and one asked for the rope in one spot going up. We all did several rappels on the way down. I have some pictures of the scrambling that may help give you an idea of what to expect: http://www.13ergirl.com/granite/granite.html
Nice photos!

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 9:07 am
by dsunwall
I have heard there is more snow to deal with this year on Granite. I don't know anything more specific though.

Re: Granite Peak Mountana

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:08 am
by MtHurd
Pics look a lot like Jagged.